A Long Time Coming
I'm probably not the first person to tell you that the Mississippi Gulf Coast has blossomed in the last several years. This is certainly apparent with the re-introduction of Amtrak's Mardi Gras Service from New Orleans, LA to Mobile, AL with several Coastal Mississippi stops along the way which has had far more riders than anticipated and often sells out. From Bay St. Louis through Gulfport and Biloxi all the way Ocean Springs, the cool, inviting, and exciting gems of the Mississippi Coast are booming with activity, art, and luxurious delights perfect to explore over a day, a weekend, or even longer.
New Orleans' Amtrak station Union Passenger Terminal was much nicer than I imagined. It was immaculate: clean and surrounded in murals. We quickly and easily boarded the train with the help of the friendly staff. I grabbed a seat in Business Class which includes roomier seats with a leg-lifting recliner and non-alcoholic beverages in the cafe car just behind us. The Mardi Gras Service took off slowly through the city, gaining speed just outside of New Orleans East. Us passengers watched as the structures became less frequent, and the vistas eased into grassy marshes surrounding Lake Borgne and The Gulf of Mexico. I was amazed at how quiet and mellow the ride was aside from the occasional jostle from the track. Between the warm staff, the comfortable ride, and no hassle with security lines, I can see how Amtrak can be an increasingly attractive option to flying. Eventually, homes and neighborhoods sprang up around us, and the train stopped at Bay St. Louis.
It was such a temperate day (weather that is soon be a memory come summer) that I walked the 10 minutes through Bay St. Louis to get to the heart of the city. I paused briefly to peruse the many upcoming concert flyers with names I recognize from regular New Orleans gigs before reaching Mockingbird Cafe. The old home-turned-eatery is shaded with wide, inviting patios on either side, perfect for a day like this. I, however, made the decision to sit inside. The colorful art and photography gave a deep sense of the citizens: lovers of their surrounding nature, hip and don't have to prove it, and committed to engaging with the community. The painting on the fence outside the window read, "Old Town Bay St Louis, ALL Are Welcome Here!," and you feel that. I got the Belgian Waffle but, of course, couldn't resist the addition of pickle brine chicken tenders and enticing Sriracha honey. The sweet and spicy meal was topped off with a buzzy MS Honey Bee Latte. I just so happen to hold the record of World's Slowest Eater, and this big meal took me an hour to complete. There's no rush here, though.
You'll notice several familiar names from New Orleans including Fleurty Girl, PJ's Coffee, and Creole Creamery while strolling the streets. It's the numerous antique and vintage shops that you can really get lost in. The knick-knacks harken back to an era of bustling restaurants and bars along the coast. The Shops of Century Hall features lovely gifts, art, and gourmet odds and ends inside the former Woodmen of the World Benevolent Society building over 100 years old.
Good Earth Records was recommended to me by several people who understand my love of great music. But this store has something even more special. Co-owner Doug Page had in stock a fascinating record he spearheaded: Houma Records - Vol. 1 Best Of.. Doug pored through 45s, finding little known cuts from Louisiana bands lost to time. This amazing compilation is just the first in a series that seeks to preserve the "swamp pop" sounds and other music of southern Louisiana. Doug also produces concerts at Bay St. Louis Little Theater often bringing popular New Orleans artists to town.
My next stop was just as musical. 100 Men Hall is impossible to miss. Located just north of the Amtrak stop, the historical building erected in 1922 is decorated with the faces of famous musicians who played here many years ago. Today, in the simplest of terms, 100 Men Hall is a venue for music performances and other events. Truly, it's a vibrant music-centered community building that honors its past as a stop on the Chitlin' Circuit while forging a new path in strengthening the Bay St. Louis community through shared experiences.
Starting out as the One Hundred Members' Debating Benevolent Association, the hallowed hall was a meeting place and performance hall for the Black community in this area. It became a popular venue for Chitlin' Circuit artists, and James Booker was a frequent visitor as he lived in the area. In the 80s and 90s, it was owned by people who weren't sure what to do with it and was nearly torn down after Hurricane Katrina. After different owners attempted to revive it, Rachel Dangermond successfully breathed life into it when she purchased it in 2018. She also resurrected the original non-profit organization from 1894 that commissioned the building.
Rachel showed me the colorful art works and show posters along the walls that were commissioned by Black artists. Each year, a collectible poster is made to highlight Booker Fest, a homage to James Booker. 100 Men Hall will be quite popular with train riders who come just to attend a show, Rock 'N' Roux gumbo cookoff, Swamp(gr)Ass Get Down, Cigars Under the Stars, and all of the other happenings going on.
Heading back to the waterfront, the locals gathered along the street for a parade honoring the graduating seniors which goes to show how tight knit this community is. I checked into The Pearl and was impressed just by the lobby; the serene Gulf artwork and warm lighting defy the neon-soaked good-time bars just outside the door. Yet, the weekly event calendar in the elevator shows that they love a good time here.
The room was airy and light. Elegant touches were abundant like white marble lining the shower, tons of storage, and photography of sacks of oysters. A few decorated oyster shells were waiting for me next to a big bag of salt and pepper potato chips (how did they know?!). I took fresh air into my body on the balcony overlooking downtown, the harbor, and the train track over the bay.
Lemoine's Landing looked so beachy from this vantage point that I couldn't resist a tiki drink before dinner. The bar filled up with regulars, and a strong breeze washed over the large, open-air patio. I sat facing the marina to enjoy a Banana Hammock; the tropical treat mixed banana liqueur, rum, and coconut puree in a delicious way. The Grand Mariner floater was an extra treat.
Post-parade, I slipped across the street to the Thorny Oyster. Executive Chef Jeffrey Hansell created a perfect collision of whimsical ambiance and young, swanky fanciness. For example, the tiki drinks have their own section on the cocktail menu, and a corner with a plush half-circular seat had accent wallpaper with a large floral and oyster print. Chef Hansell is well known for his culinary ventures throughout New Orleans and St. Tammany Parish, but I think he's found a place where he can really shine at Thorny Oyster. His baked oysters are quite literally swimming in pools of Calabrian-spiced butter. The crunchy grilled focaccia bread was the ultimate vessel for them as the butter spread so nicely throughout it. The Blackened Scallops were dripping with roasted garlic cream with their own butter concoction awaiting below them.
The namesake Thorny Margarita on the tiki drink menu seemed to be a good option to hold its own against this meal. Of course, the plate of raw Gulf oysters also added a burst of salty freshness. These were particularly appealing: bright, not fishy, and mellow. The mignonette served with them was awesome, and I don't think I'll fully enjoy raw oysters without it in the future. Just those few dishes were so good and filling, but one larger dish to get the full picture was needed. Instead of a large entree, I chose to try out the Crab Cake. This was no small matter. The Crab Cake takes up most of the dish it arrives on, and the zesty swirls of chili vinaigrette and tarragon brown butter take up the remainder.
Luckily, my hotel for the night wasn't far from the restaurant. In fact, they share the building. Alas, I only had one cozy night at The Pearl as I was set to explore other areas tomorrow.
Into the Sunrise
I hopped back on the train with the assistance of a lovely local volunteer who kept all awaiting passengers informed. From the Biloxi stop (the last Mississippi stop), I headed for Ocean Springs which is becoming quite the hot spot. This picturesque enclave features many eateries, boutiques, and breweries in a walkable area.
I dined at The Traveler, a cute cafe on the grounds of the Walter Anderson Museum. Walking in felt like entering someone's home. Indeed, it was a home until a year ago when the owner who lived every day of her 96 year-life here passed. Her loving cats were able to stay in a little house built just for them on the grounds. They meandered through the patrons taking naps in sunny spots. The walls and furniture are festooned with artwork. I particularly enjoyed a space on the veranda that looked like a bird cage. Holographic plastic birds were strung above head and glimmered in the sunlight.
The heat of the day started to waft in so the Lavender Lemonade hit the spot. It's the same color as the holographic birds! Then came the gorgeous main dishes. The Coastal Bahn Mi is a zesty overstuffed sandwich made unique with tuna dip and pickled chow chow. The cucumber slices were thick and burst freshness with every bite. A bit smaller in size, but not flavor, the Voyager Quiche had an irresistible hot honey vinaigrette over it, and I had to comment that I'm "so into hot honey right now."
Possibly the most pretty dish was the Citrus Olive Oil Cake. The moist cake slice was embedded with whole orange slices that were baked into the cake. The plate was strewn with bright orange edible flowers. It was simple, yet very effective. Being a dill freak, I just had to have a biscuit with dill crema to round everything out. Lots of fresh dill was on the plate too which I so appreciate. The Traveler welcomes guests every day of the week and often hosts community events like a live tattooing event just before my arrival.
Just a few steps away, the Walter Anderson Museum of Art was open to curious visitors wanting to know more about this enigmatic artist. I regret that I knew so little about him until after this visit, and I'm happy to say that I was so taken by his work that I shouted, "I want to be best friends with this guy," well before I left. The museum is just a small sampling of Walter Anderson and his family members' work which is prolific. From building-filling murals depicting the four seasons and state history to sketches made to re-learn drawing after treatment, there's almost no media that Walter did not accomplish. He's a fascinating person, drawn to the natural world to escape the shackles of so-called civilization. He was hospitalized several times for mental health issues, and sometimes escaped.
Walter and his artist brothers James, Mac, and Peter live on through this gallery of furniture, pottery, paintings, and much more. I was overcome with emotion stepping into Walter's recreated cabin. Just after his death, Walter's family members had to break into his cabin and a locked room. The locked room held such intense beauty that eventually it was dismantled and re-mantled here. The neon paint colors depict nature and its glory in such bright colors that it looks like how heaven is described by people who have near-death experiences. His quote, "Beware by whom you are called sane," hovers over the door and in several other locations in the museum. This museum is a must-see; I spent nearly 2 hours here.
I took a short trip away from downtown Ocean Springs to the beautiful rolling hills and golf course around Gulf Hills Hotel & Resort to check out the extensive renovations they've done recently. The Elvis-themed suite had almost nothing to do with my request to visit (I jest). After seeing the really cool new look that was fresh and chic, yet playful, we headed upstairs where a life-size Elvis cutout greeted me. A deep red hall with disco balls was the entrance to this kingly suite of three bedrooms and a large communal room with so much Elvis Presley stuff. It was beyond my expectations. I've never seen an entire wall with Elvis wallpaper before. Several of the walls were reclaimed wood paneling from the very room where, of course, Elvis Presley used to stay when at Gulf Hills Hotel that was destroyed in Hurricane Camille. Even Elvis haters can appreciate the luxurious feel, the kitschy mid-century furniture, and the exquisite amenities, but Elvis lovers will never want to leave. I sure didn't. The revamped hotel also honors other guests like Al Capone, Marilyn Monroe, and Jayne Mansfield who lived short and impactful lives, some of it right here.
Back in downtown, the patio at Lost Spring Brewing Co. was already filling up with drink-seekers. The dimming sun filtered through the trees so nicely, but I opted to have a seat inside as there was a lot to look at. I enjoyed how each beer on tap had its own painting to serve as the menu. I tried out a Mississippi Hippie, a love letter to beach bum culture. The deeper El Dorado Hops played on the otherwise light flavor of the IPA. The Rye or Dye IPA was deeper yet. The higher ABV of just over 7% really whetted my appetite for a big meal. Luckily, I was already headed to my usual Biloxi destination to do just that.
I slipped into my room at the always luxurious and lively Beau Rivage Resort & Casino located high above the Gulf and beach. It was an incredible view to watch the sun set from the perfectly-placed chair. I wouldn't be here for long as I had a meal waiting at just one of the amazing restaurants on the casino floor. Beau Rivage really broke the mold with Coraline's. They literally cut through the building to add several large, arched windows to give views of the Gulf, and raised the floor to meet them. It's unheard of to have windows anywhere near the casino floor, so this commitment to doing things differently goes to show how much Beau Rivage cares about customer experience.
Though it was growing dark over the water, the warmth of Coraline's came alive. The rich greens, romantic lighting, touches of gold, and hot New Orleans jazz created quite the enticing atmosphere. The Zest to Impress Margarita was the correct cocktail for this mood. Sweet, smokey, and spicy; tequila is met with orange curacao, hibiscus and rose syrup, and a spicy salt blend rim. Well, it's not really a rim. The scandalous aspect of this drink is that the spice is a strip down the side of glass. One needs to lick along this strip to get it.
The cornbread is must according to almost everyone. I like that they are coarse because of the stone-ground cornmeal, but still moist and crumbly. The whipped butter is topped with Steen's Sugar Cane Syrup, and they mix perfectly when swiped across the cornbread. It's a wonderful mix of sweet and savory. I always love scallops, and these were some of the best I've tried. They didn't arrive with garnishes and extras, but the flavor of the thin Asian-influenced sauce was phenomenal.
The Redfish of the Day was served as a Couvillon: the redfish filet was so heavily topped with lump crab meat and shrimp that you had to dig through the pile just to get to it, and it was not a small filet. The white rice and French bread slice helped to soak up the delicious, rich sauce that looked like a lake upon the plate. My Grilled Gulf Yellowfin Tuna was cooked medium and juicy on the outside and a rare center and drizzled with a light cilantro lime vinaigrette. The tender fish was plopped into a hearty serving of earthy carrot puree. Long green beans held the juice that rolled off of the tuna so well. I couldn't say no to a side of fries with comeback sauce that I used to sop up the liquid remnants of every dish. I feel it's more effective (and tasty) than bread.
At least of full spoonfuls of dessert was highly recommended to round out the meal, and the Hummingbird Cheesecake did, in fact, impress. The round cake was made special with fruit baked right into the crust on the bottom. The confection was drizzled with nuts, and a whimsical white chocolate leaf sat upon it. The leaf's silver sheen glimmered in the lamplight. I took the remainder up to my room at Beau Rivage to sample while soaking in a hot late night bath.
Extra Fine Dining
Waking rested in the early morning sunlight over the endless water, I took a sun-soaked stroll through the historic part of the city to Greenhouse Biloxi, a friendly funky coffeeshop with a robust all day breakfast and lunch menu. It seems to be a popular spot with locals and even tourists who stated they "always come here" when visiting. The Aries Latte blended the flavors of coconut and white chocolate, and it was topped with a really thick lime foam that required a spoon to eat. I've never had anything quite like it.
I chose more savory items for this breakfast and had the special savory biscuit of the day (tomato and arugula-baked biscuit topped with pesto) and a cup of roasted tomato soup. The inviting pink and green exterior was recreated on the biscuit mix bags perfect for gifting. Just next door, I perused the records, cassettes, and more at Marley's Music Record Store.
It's difficult to miss the Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art as the eye-catching steel and brick facades look more like flower statues than buildings. The many galleries that make up the campus featured works by several artists, so that pieces crossed several artistic paths. The namesake, of course, was highlighted. George Edgar Ohr's pottery and his quotes served to inspire and intrigue beyond their beauty. I enjoyed the collection of mugs with holes in them displayed with the quote, "Here gentlemen, come try your skill. I'll hold a wager if you will that you don't drink this liquor all without you spill or let some fall." Sarah House's Bloomshift exhibition is a contemporary set of dripping statues. My visit was well timed as the current artist-in-residence Jerrod Partridge and his furbaby were in the midst of painting during my visit.
I went back to the Beau Rivage in the afternoon not to have a respite in my sunny room or to catch the action in the casino. I had a chance to check out the spa, something that I've never done here. Def Leppard's "Photograph" faded into serene spa music when I entered Beau Rivage's spa. The staff members were warm with a distinct southern hospitality style to their interaction. Upon donning a comfy robe, I was lead to a massage room for an 80-minute full-body session. The masseuse was incredible; Michael is highly sought after for his skills. He quickly pinpointed my difficult spots and spent extra time working on them. After such a thorough massage, I melted into the solarium of the ladies' lounge which was situated within view of the resort's busy pool. From behind the curtain, you could silently gaze upon the sunbathers while soaking up your own filtered sun. It's easy to get into a blissful meditation on these luxury loungers while sipping some hot tea. I checked out the other amenities after nearly an hour here. After a dip in the gurgling hot tub to get re-energized, I headed back out into the real world for more of the coast's finest places.
I walked over to Fly Llama Brewing for a late afternoon tipple. It was apparent that lots of people had the same idea. The porch and interior bar was hopping with activity. Paintings of funny llamas watched over the crowd of humans and furbabies who imbibed the innovative brews made just behind the glass wall. I had a Ramble On Rose sour which was the perfect fruity treat. I chased that with a flagship Fly-Pa IPA to get a taste of what this little brewery with a big personality is known for. Fly-Pa is the kind of mellower, slightly citrus IPA that can get those IPA haters to change their mind. Soon enough, I was on my way to have what would be an exceptional meal.
Accolades adorned the walls of White Pillars Restaurant & Lounge in a quiet way. The gleam of the white walls, pillars, curtains, and floor tiles, and the large antique mirrors that reflect them, were broken by vibrant green ferns. Two special framed pieces were actually windows into the bustling and immaculate kitchen. Chef/Owner Austin Sumrall sat with me for a few minutes to explain the tale of how he revived this piece of Biloxi history and made it into something entirely new.
The home's original owner (whose family photos still adorn the walls) treated malaria patients quarantined to Ship Island. The building transformed into a restaurant in 1969 after Hurricane Camille devastated much of the area. The owner eventually retired, and the building sat silent for almost 30 years. When Austin Sumrall came upon the building, he felt that this place could be his "ideal," a place where he could do things his way. He had been working at restaurants across the country, picking up knowledge from award winning chefs along the way. He opened White Pillars in 2017, still driving for Uber to ensure that this would work out. Today, White Pillars is a fantastic example of what a restaurant should be: using local ingredients and ensuring very little is wasted via whole animal utilization and a stock program using vegetable discards.
White Pillars is a strict farm-to-table restaurant. In fact, Chef Austin needed to fix one of his box gardens that day. Items are used from the restaurant's gardens or sourced from local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen. The menu changes daily, though they can usually keep some popular items on the menu for the regulars. The farm-freshness extends to the cocktail menu. I had a carrot juice and gin cocktail called the Wascally Wabbit further flavored with Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur.
A parade of dishes came through, each more exciting than the next. The bread here is not served with mere butter. Three distinct lardos are presented: honey, garlic, and Cajun. The lardos spread silkier than butter and offer such immense flavor. The Steak Tartare can be mistaken for tuna in its bright color and fresh flavor. The small steak bits created a bowl for the soy-marinated egg yolk and alternating dollops of smoked oyster aioli and black garlic puree. The rice paper chips had a satisfying crunch that left almost nothing because they dissipate in the mouth.
One of the most popular menu items is as spicy as the name suggests. The Biloxi Hot French Hermit Oysters are a triumph, and I'm not usually a fan of fried oysters. You really do need that pickle slice underneath to quell some of the spice, but the heat does build over the course of six oddly-crunchy, juicy oysters. The Alabama White BBQ Sauce also helps to cool the tongue. I really fell in love with the "Crab Rangoon" Ravioli. So creamy, so flavorful… the dashes of chili crisp oil against the sweet coconut milk made golden with turmeric swirled around the soft ravioli with every bite. The raviolis has either one leaf of cilantro or one impossibly thin jalapeno slice that set the flavors off differently, and awesomely.
The chefs could not help themselves to send out the Foie Gras PB&J as a big finale dessert. The Louisiana strawberry gelee-lathered brioche cake was bejeweled with whipped Hudson Valley foie gras and candied peanuts. With a sip of hot espresso, this sweet, salty, savory treat can appeal to all palates well. Chef Austin's innovative mind and devout commitment to freshness of the locally-sourced ingredients make this a wonderful dining experience. Other than the award-winning food, White Pillars' atmosphere is what will keep people coming back, choosing to celebrate special moments time and again or telling everyone they know to eat here.
My evening wasn't quite finished as John Primer was just starting his second set at Ground Zero Blues Club. The tables were full, and it was a great mix of people all enjoying this lively set of veteran blues players. The walls were just as exciting as the music; guitars hung along one wall and a replica of Luckett's Grocery was along another. John Primer came back out and picked up a polka dot guitar that he said Buddy Guy gave him on his birthday. "It might be worth something someday," he chuckled. Rollicking song after song, John and his crew got everyone going, especially when he ran his slide down the strings and traded inside jokes with the crowd. He also dispensed wisdom between the music. "Everything you do, do it with feeling. And do it good." I guess he felt it so good that he broke strings on his guitar and let the guys alternate solos while he replaced them.
During the set, I marveled at a spot in the floor where a skeleton sat all lit up. This is to illustrate tunnels rumored to exist underneath the building and elsewhere in town. I swear it wasn't the margarita. John Primer closed out his set by saying that his own Mississippi Blues Trail marker is going up on May 5th, and he remarked, "Don't stop loving the blues, but love all music. It's a gift from God. Blues came from everywhere, all over the world. Blues came from hard times. It'll heal you." I think that brought a little tear to my eye. You really can't top something like that. I made my way back to Beau Rivage for my early departure.
Pretty early in the morning, I arose and walked over to Biloxi's Amtrak stop. There was already a group of women very excited to get to New Orleans to have a good time. The train arrived soon enough, and we boarded quickly and easily, just like every other time. I'm so happy that I got to experience these places on Mississippi's Gulf Coast for the first time, and it won't be the last. In fact, friends of mine are already asking about when we can all go together or telling me that they're ready for the trip that they've already planned. New Orleans and the coast have a long, close history, and it's high time for us to be linked together again.
