The Bonds of Britain and the Bayou
New Orleanians and Britons met on the battlefield 211 years ago, and 141 years later (70 years ago), New Orleans sounds had a burst of popularity that is still thriving today. Many ties bring our distinct cultures together; the bond is only getting stronger. Illustrative of this fact is that there's never been a better or easier time to travel between New Orleans and the U.K. British Airways/American Airlines runs non-stop flights between MSY and London's Heathrow Airport almost every day of the week. Just sit back, relax, watch some movies while you enjoy your included hot meals and adult beverage and soon enough you'll land in London.
The Big Boom of NOLA in England
Fresh off the non-stop flight, I went straight to the Eel Pie Island Museum just south of London in Twickenham. The lovingly-crafted museum founded and curated by Michele Whitby held a wealth of information about the fascinating history of the small island in the Thames River from boatyards to the artist colony today. The musical history is the most intriguing.
What is immediately apparent is the strong influence that New Orleans-based music had on the happenings here. Trumpeter Ken Colyer's quote is emblazoned on the wall: "Eel Pie Island is as close as you will get to New Orleans in England. The atmosphere and the feel is here - I have never experienced it so strongly anywhere else." In 1951, entrepreneur Michael Snapper purchased the nearly century-old, run-down Eel Pie Island Hotel and ballroom. Snapper's employee Arthur Chisnall asked Snapper if he could use the space to book traditional jazz bands since so many art school students were purchasing these types of records in their thrift shop. Ken Colyer and his band opened up Eel Pie Jazz Club in August 1956.
Trad jazz and the New Orleans/English jazz/blues/folk creation skiffle reigned here until the venue booked a ragtag rock outfit The Rolling Stones for the slower Wednesday evening slots beginning on April 24, 1963. The young rockers who played here went onto stardom: David Bowie, Eric Clapton, Rod Stewart to name a few. American jazz and blues artists like Howlin' Wolf, John Lee Hooker, and Buddy Guy were booked, mingling with the British youths and inspiring their sound. Another shift began in 1967 as bands like Pink Floyd, The Who, and Black Sabbath came in.
While the public can only venture to Eel Pie Island a few times a year, The Eel Pie Island Museum and seasonal walking tour thoroughly explains just how American music and New Orleans soul shaped the English rock sound.
From Twickenham to the heart of bustling London, I dropped off my gear and walked through the teeming streets to Camden where I descended into The Underworld. The underground metal venue was filled with black shirts crowded around the bar for in-between-band beers. A New Orleans metal band shirt featuring Crowbar caught my eye; this summer saw a ton of NOLA-based bands touring throughout Europe. It's clear that our musical entanglement is still going as strong as it did 70 years ago.
The flavor of this music is a bit heavier than used to play at Eel Pie Island, however. Enquire Within set the mood with haunting droning sounds. Vocalist Jacon Waller looked too happy for the heavy music. His vocals ranged from clean, high vocals to deep grizzly growls. The floor and walls rumbled when guitarists Dan Lewin and Nik King harmonized. I really appreciated it when Jacob remarked, "I want to make a point that so many venues have closed lately, but people like you keep it alive." This would be the theme of my entire trip.
Revitalized in 2025, Acid Reign brought back memories for the older metalheads and rocked a new generation with a super high energy show that was not contained to the stage. Had the microphone cord been long enough, I feel it could have traveled up the staircase and out onto the street. The band that began in the mid-80s even has a new album, Daze of the Week, which they performed several numbers from including "The Who of You," "Alonely," and "Blind Lies."
Vocalist Howard Smith was a whirlwind of words and chaos. Spitting lyrics to the newest and oldest songs like "Humanoia" and "Life in Forms" from The Fear in his "F**k You" collared shirt and white shorts, he bounced from corner to corner and even into the pit. While moshers were excited to have him in their midst, they were careful not to inflict a show-ending blow. Smith even performed a mid-show outfit change to show off his love of Taylor Swift. He jumped onto a railing along a side of the stage to sing "Hanging On The Telephone," a cover song of The Nerves and Blondie.
On the second to last song "Fantastic Passion," Charlie Griffiths (formerly of Haken) made a brief appearance to play dueling riffs with guitarist Matt Smith. The black shirts spilled out of The Underworld and roamed the streets to have a few post-show beers, and I prepared for a day of delving deeper into music history.
Rebel Rebel
I had planned to visit the David Bowie Centre at the V&A East Storehouse, but I wasn't prepared for how incredible this entire museum is. Those who have a fear of heights should remember not to look down. This warehouse space has suspended catwalks and glass floors between the racks and shelves of oddities. Antiquities mingle with modern marvels. A full-size recreation of an apartment building can be seen by peering through windows, and the earliest version of YouTube fascinates those under 20 years of age.
I love the clear parts of the floor where paintings have been positioned to be marveled at below your feet. As you wend through the rows, you visit furniture from the last several centuries, toys of the post-war era, and the completely rebuilt office interior that Frank Lloyd Wright designed for Edgar Kauffman. Musical instruments can be found among the eclectic collection including Hoshino Gakki's broken mirror mosaic guitar.
The David Bowie Centre held many treasures from his career, and film footage played high on the wall larger than life. Having just seen photos from some of his very first shows with The Manish Boys at Eel Pie Island Museum, being ensconced in his futuristic clothing, stylized photos, and commitment to evolution (having launched internet service provider BowieNet and releasing an album for download in 1998) felt like a full circle moment.
There is one bar I've been wanting to visit specifically because it's not easily accessible. Through the secret door at The Breakfast Club Spitalfields and into the dark basement stairwell, you enter The Mayor of Scaredy Cat Town for a few vivacious drinks. This place is so secretive that the menu encourages you to act like you're leaving the restaurant's bathroom upon exiting the speakeasy through a different door. I tried out the Tequila Makes Me Lose Control. The spicy, exciting drink of tequila spiced with green peppercorn, Aperol, lime, agave, and grapefruit soda had a seductive stripe of sugar along the side of the glass for licking and fresh rosemary clipped to the glass to sniff while sipping.
In another part of town, I sought out Satan's Whiskers not just because of the spooky name, but because it is Number 21 of The 50 Best Bars in the World. This gem looks like a grungy dive bar on the outside. It was packed with happy customers taking up every spot except one chair at the bar. The friendly staff were in constant motion making cocktails, yet they were totally attentive and kind. Just this level of service proves to me why Satan's Whiskers is ranked so high. The Airmail looked perfect to be paired with fries that I needed. The prosecco cocktail was infused with rum and honey for a tropical taste. The grate along the length of the bar was perfect for drink photos as it had cutouts of flames and little horned devils.
Cold Gin Time
On this drizzly day, I visited the Gibson Garage. I don't play; I'm just a professional music listener and fan. I love the look of instruments and am in awe of the craftsmanship that makes them. Guitars are particularly mesmerizing to me. The Gibson Garage understands that the guitars are gorgeous and features two conveyor belts that rotate guitars past the windows. People like me are helpless not to stand there and watch them parade by.
On a tour of the shop, I was shown where a guitarist can completely customize their Gibson, selecting every detail down to the unfinished wood. I was shocked to learn that you can "age" your brand new guitar in various ways to give it a vintage look without the vintage problems. Players are invited to try out the guitars before settling on one. You really get a sense of the vastness of Gibson's offerings here: sexy electric guitars with glittery finishes, Spanish-style guitars, classic flat-top acoustics, the iconic Les Paul, and so much more. Even amps and cases for every taste were on display.
Past the beautiful photos taken by Dick Polak of rockstars at play and rest (hello, Marc Bolan and aforementioned Rolling Stones!) and down into the subfloor where the Epiphone guitars live, a small stage glimmers in the light. This is where regular events like concerts happen. You can regularly find rock stars testing out new guitars here, as well. NOLA/Raleigh band Corrosion of Conformity landed here just days after I came, for example.
I went from checking out Gibson guitars to learning about some stages on which they used to be played. The sprawling Victoria & Albert South Kensington Museum had a new Lost Music Venues exhibit. The exhibit was created to highlight bygone music venues and clubs of the region with the aim of explaining how these spaces not only promoted artists of all types, but brought people together; a great lesson for a time when "third spaces" require attention and protection. A link to the Music Venue Trust website was made available for that purpose.
Lost Music Venues opens with the explanation that "Venues nurture artistic talent, create space for experimentation, and provide social and economic value to communities." Black walls festooned with colorful flyers, stickers, and graffiti immersed you. I loved the recreated bathroom stalls, but there weren't quite enough stickers and crude written comments to be realistic. Photos showing sweaty, happy citizens packing dingy dance floors seems like an occasional thing rather than a nightly occurrence.
I took a ride over the river to the Thames Distillers and met 11th generation distiller George Maxwell to learn about the art of making gin. Though the distillery makes gin for several brands, I was here for Tales of the Cocktail darling Fords Gin. The award-winning brand was designed by Simon Ford and George's father Charles Maxwell to work with every well-known gin cocktail. In fact, the bottle was made with bartenders in mind: three pinch-points, an embossed measurement, and an easy-peel label so that the bottle can be reused for mixers.
After making a perfect Fords Gin and Tonic, George took me into the heart of the operation where two relatively small stainless steel stills named Tom Thumb and Thumbelina pump out 220 liters a run; the spirit is mixed with neutral spirit and water to create Fords Gin. George taught me that gin making is unlike any other spirit in that alcohol is gently steeped in 172 degrees to extract oils from botanicals like a perfume before distillation.
George led me through the nine botanicals that are used to make Fords Gin starting with the bases of Italian juniper and coriander seed. The peels of bitter orange, lemon, and grapefruit cut through the base, and angelica, cassia, and morris root add a woody sweetness. Jasmine adds floral notes. The key to Fords Gin is the balance that these botanicals provide, covering all parts of the palate. I sampled some neat Fords Gin back at the gorgeous green and gold industry bar as well as two ice box martinis, awesome for the warming day. George gifted me a much-needed umbrella and my very own bottle of Fords Gin that I used for gin and tonics throughout my trip.
From the bright and airy Fords Gin Bar at Thames Distillers, I crept back to The Underworld for another round of rock before leaving London. Spooky sounds with ominous church bells, howling wind, and night animals preceded Midnight overtaking the stage. Shredding guitar ripped through the air before the driving rock drum beat brought it all together. The men of Midnight were shrouded in black hoods. Frontman Athenar provided punk-esque grunts between fast riffs and stage sprints. Before launching into "Necromania," he said only "real bangers would show up on Monday night."
And this Monday night show wasn't even over yet. Voivod was yet to come. The long-running heavy metal band almost sold-out the room, and most seemed to be die-hard fans. Audience members yelled out songs they craved to hear between each song, but the guys did not respond to that. The songs played went all the way back to the debut album War and Pain released in 1984 with the title track and "Voivod."
Denis "Snake" Bélanger shook and quaked to get the words out, occasionally wielding the mic stand above his head like a weapon. Working through "The Unknown Knows," "Korgüll the Exterminator," and "Into My Hypercube," Snake, Chewy, and Rocky towered over those in the front row, dripping sweat on them, and they loved it. During "Tornado," Snake encouraged everyone to "do a circle dance" and inspired the bold to mosh around the concrete support beams. This was certainly a proper way to end my time in London.
North to Hull
I hopped on a train heading north through the countryside to the coastal city of Hull. This is where the Music Cities Convention was being held because it has a rich history of music that still thrives today. In fact, Hull was given the honor of UK City of Culture in 2017. The convention kicked off with thought-provoking talks that brought together delegates from every corner of the world including Everywhere Music City: Building Resilient Ecosystems Outside the Centre, Using Technology to Break Down Barriers to Musical Creative Expression, and The Impact of Music and Giving featuring local artist Chiedu Oraka.
At the end of the day, attendees were asked to break out into one of four workshops, and I selected the Night Time Economy group. We discussed issues that nighttime events face that daytime activities don't like safety and public transportation and how cities can better manage these issues for a thriving nightlife scene.
After this first intense day, I made my way to my room at the Hideout Apartment Hotel just across the street from the Hull Minster where the MCC Awards were to take place the next night. I was excited walking up to the building because I was sure that my room on the third floor would offer the most incredible views of the nearly 800-year-old church. The chic, elegant apartments are a contrast to the Minster in the most charming way. Soft colors, plush upholstery, and modern conveniences envelop you as you stare out upon the Medieval building, taking in the ornate details from a vantage point few have been able to enjoy throughout history. The massive gothic windows, towering spires, and intricate masonry offer so much detail. This is the best hotel view I've ever had and will likely come back to it one day.
It wasn't just the view that I gushed about to my friends back home. The bedroom is made special with a skylight that allows in warm sunlight and a view of the sky directly over the bed. The cool black-tiled shower becomes special with the bespoke Harvest bath products that did wonders for my hair. I enjoyed the personal touch of oldies playing on the retro-looking radio when I walked in (how did they know?!). The apartment even featured a full-kitchen with coffee and tea. They stocked a lovely pour-over coffee for those who are extra about their morning cup. Alas, I would save this experience for another day because I had a busy night ahead.
The whole city teemed with activity during Hull of a Night when eight music venues scheduled concerts that you could go between thanks to ever-rolling buses. I spent time at the New Adelphi Club to rub elbows with both fellow conventioneers and locals who were there to see Chiedu Oraka; the Hull-born rapper and artist captivated MCC earlier in the day. The Black Yorkshireman drew a big crowd who knew every word to his songs, and they raved when he performed "N.H.E. (North Hull Estate)." Clearly, everyone here is very proud of their hometown.
And The Award Goes To…
It was a little rainy for the second day of the Music Cities Convention, but the lovely local volunteers were warm and cheery. This day was held in the impressive Connexin Live venue that can host thousands for concerts and other events. Music as a Pillar of Peace and Recovery was incredibly endearing; Ahmed Saqer from Palestine Music Expo and Iryna Lobanok from the Ukrainian Institute explained how conflict has affected their countrymen and how music can help with trauma. New Orleans & Company's Executive VP Alice Glenn joined other delegates for The Policy Remix: Bold Solutions for Resilient Music Cities All Over the World.
I really enjoyed The Power of Music City Networks, a microcosm of what this traveling convention is all about. Collaborating and learning between music-centric organizations and places can and should lead to stronger scenes and more creativity.
Finally, I got to step inside this amazing structure I had been staring at for days for the Music Cities Awards. I've never sipped bubbly inside a church before. The Hull Minster was filled with activity just before everyone took their seats along three sides of the stage. A choir of talented adults and children graced us with songs before emcee and World Living Statue Champion Andy Train engaged us with his bright personality and wardrobe.
Nine winners were named for their outstanding work involving music, policy, and accessibility. The Bristol Music Fund won the Music Cities Policy award for their proposed community-owned reinvestment model to ensure the longevity of venues. The Music Tourism award went to Queensland Music Festival Outback Trail. In between awards, we were treated to a few high-energy rounds of Bongo's Bingo complete with confetti cannons, dance-offs, and prizes. As magical and entertaining as the awards ceremony was, the real magic was mingling with fellow delegates at the after-party, really getting to know each other and our respective city music scenes. These moments make Music Cities Convention exceptional. MCC may be landing in Louisiana soon enough; keep checking WhereYat.com for updates!
Hull of a Day
This sunny day brought the opportunity to get to know Hull better. After having breakfast of a just-out-of-the-oven roll with butter and gruyeres cheese and a berry iced tea at Hearth Bakery, I started my museum journey. Like other British cities, the museums are free which is a huge plus. I walked over to the Spurn Lightship and boarded it with the help of the friendly volunteers, one of whom used to work on this vessel. I saw every corner of the interior of the ship which helped ships navigate the River Humber for five decades.
I then walked through the old town's pretty streets past shops, boutiques, coffeeshops, and pubs to the Museums Quarter where several institutions were hosting tourists and happy school children. The Streetlife Museum was more extensive and immersive than I imagined. The interior was a recreation of Hull a century or so ago. You could visit shops to see their products, check out the earliest automobiles, and look out over the River Hull where it meets the Humber Estuary, the reason Hull became an important settlement and port.
The next museum, the Wilberforce House Museum, was just around the corner. The beautiful old home was built in the 1600s just as trans-Atlantic trades were starting up. These trades included enslaved Africans. Member of Parliament William Wilberforce headed a campaign for the abolition of the British Slave Trade which finally passed in 1807. This museum details his tireless efforts as well as how the slave trade across the world, including New Orleans, brutalized people for centuries. While themes and artifacts here can be difficult to confront, I found it to be very detailed and thoughtful.
Right next to Hideout Hotel, the Trinity Market was buzzing with lunchtime activity. I got some deep fried foods that I had been craving and enjoyed perusing a few vendors with record stalls. There were other record stores around town including Wrecking Ball Music & Books that had its own venue that I lost myself in. The City of Hull took it another step further with their own music tour. The Reveal Hull Diamond Life audio tour explains the past 60 years of Hull through its music culture. Easily accessible from your phone, the tour is a full circle that leads you through downtown's oldest and newest areas, and I wouldn't have seen some cool streets without this tour. The hour-long tour is narrated by local comedian/actor/writer Lucy Beaumont, but the interviews with artists including Roland Gift (Fine Young Cannibals), Eliza and Martin Carthy, Cosey Fanni Tutti (Throbbing Gristle), and several more really immerse you in the stories.
I loved Cosey Tutti's tale about a house she lived in on picturesque Prince Street; this particular street had a charming building that created a tunnel leading to the beguiling Hull Minster, and I had no idea I would get to be in that very spot soon enough.
I'd be having dinner at Hearth Restaurant, a Michelin-listed charming eatery with an ever-changing menu based on what's locally available. What I loved immediately was that my table was in a part of the building that spanned the street that I had gazed upon earlier, and I had the only spot in the window overlooking the photogenic street during sunset. Others had a perfect view of the Minster. I tried so hard not to fill up on the house-baked bread with amazing salted butter. The interruption of a double canapes helped.
The Burrata with sweet strawberries atop marinated fig slices was light and delightful. Airy and sweet, almost dessert like. As a contrast, the Szechuan Honey Fried Chicken came dressed in a viscous, very decadent sesame sauce. The pickle slices on top brightened the dense flavor.
The BBQ'd Hispi Cabbage sounded so different that I couldn't resist it. Indeed it was quite spicy and exhilarating in every bite as the cabbage was flavored with a Gochujang emulsion and tangy kimchi. Puffed wild rice provided a chewiness that really held the flavors well. I needed just a little something sweet for the end of the meal, but the slushy Grapefruit & Galliano Granita was sweet and spicy. The treat was imbued with honey-roasted pineapple bits and pepper with chili. For the setting, the inventive cuisine, and wonderful hospitality, it's obvious why Hearth is getting noticed in the restaurant world.
Working Class Hero
I had already planned to visit Birmingham post convention to enjoy the life story of Ozzy Osbourne before I learned about the city's cultural diversity and its influence on music from delegates at MCC. I finally enjoyed that gourmet pour-over coffee while taking in my last moments of the Minster from my room at Hideout Apartment Hotel before boarding the train south to the bustling metropolis of Birmingham to better understand its musical life.
Hometown hero Ozzy Osbourne is well represented almost immediately. A huge metal bull named Ozzy presides over the train station. On the outside, the station shines like a mirror, reflecting all of the architecture and people around it. Portraits, photos, and murals of Ozzy and his Black Sabbath bandmates Geezer, Tony, and Bill grace buildings, windows, bridges, and benches.
Walking uphill toward massive ornate old buildings, you're hit with a sense of what Birmingham may have looked like before the ravages of WWII bombings and how that period shaped the last eight decades. Informative kiosks explained that many important concerts were held at Town Hall. American jazz bands threw all night concerts starting in the 1950s. The Beatles performed here in 1963 with Roy Orbison. Local bands including the Electric Light Orchestra and Led Zeppelin were booked here before Black Sabbath performed in 1971.
The Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery touted Ozzy's Working Class Hero Exhibit which was small but impactful. The black shirts (which included me) were out in force trying to witness this loving tribute to him. Ozzy's words, awards, and gold records lined the walls. Further into the museum, detailed exhibits explained the history of this area going back tens of thousands of years. Even Vikings visited this area, depositing treasures that were eventually left behind. There was a ton to see here that I wasn't expecting.
I wonder what little John Osbourne of Aston would have thought had you told him that one day, there would be an exhibit to his accomplishments in this beautiful building that tens of thousands of fans would visit just because they loved him and his music. Ozzy's quote on the wall said so much: "I'm just John Osbourne: a working-class kid from Aston, who quit his job in the factory and went looking for a good time."
The Newman Brothers' Coffin Works museum nearby seemed like a fitting place to learn more about Birmingham's history and industry. The staff members were clearly dedicated to explaining the story of this factory where metal fixtures were made before the building was abandoned. One guide demonstrated how heavy weights were pulled and dropped to stamp designs on metal plates. The shroud room showcased funeral clothing including a special shroud made with hometown hero Ozzy Osbourne in mind.
I walked through the lively streets of Birmingham as the sun began to set. The incredible street art was like a museum gallery set among the dark brick bridges. Dead Wax Digbeth caught my eye as it is a craft beer-slinging vinyl listening bar. However, the venue has multiple areas for live musical enjoyment in a kooky art-mosphere. After ingesting a whole, piping hot Dolore pizza and cold Dead Wax Lager, I went upstairs as FNSTY was finishing up a rousing set of good ol', black leather rock n' roll.
The headlining band same. founded by brothers Jimmy and Harry started soon after with up-tempo, fun rock that got everyone in a good mood. Even though some of their songs are darker (like the one inspired by Stephen King's Misery), the good vibes were palpable. This particular show allowed dads to get in for free in honor of their father who made viral videos with same.'s music. His work paid off in that same. was featured on the Kelly Clarkson Show days after this concert. The walk back was filled with bars, venues, and just open areas that people flocked to to hear music and have fun.
A Cheeky Pint
I couldn't go across the Atlantic without a visit to Dublin, Ireland to indulge at the Guinness Storehouse. The scaling 7-story museum at the back of the 50-acre Guinness campus was packed with people on a Sunday afternoon. I would describe the Guinness Storehouse like a Disney World experience. You were taken through a fascinating rendering of the four ingredients that make Guinness that felt like Spaceship Earth. The waterfall did some impressive tricks that you'll have to see to believe. The cooperage, the classic ads, and an animatronic whistling clam came before the tiny Guinness tasting.
The real treat is The Gravity Bar on the top floor that offers absolutely incredible views of all of Dublin and beyond. Freshly-poured Guinness in hand, you can walk around the floor-to-ceiling windows to see all the way to the mountains. This wasn't my last stop, however. I found my way to the Connoisseur Experience where a few special guests were taken through the whole history of Guinness beginning with founder Arthur Guinness who signed a 9,000 year lease on St. James Gate brewery in 1759. We sampled the staple beers still being brewed, and we were tasked with pouring our very own Guinness out of the tap; easier said than done after a few beers. Though mine wasn't perfect, it was good enough to receive a certificate.
I wasn't quite ready to end my trip, so I sauntered into Arthur's Pub for the best Bangers and Mash, and, of course, more beer: an IPA from Trouble Brewing. Though the upstairs space is a venue in its own right entitled Arthur's Jazz & Blues Club, a trio sat in the dining room and entertained with some light-hearted tunes.
There's much to do in the United Kingdom and Ireland beyond the basic tourist itinerary. Discovering the ties that bind, getting to know people, and forging new connections is what I would recommend to you.
