Howdy from Houston!
There's a lot to admire about Houston. The Texas city is home to the fourth largest population in the U.S. and has some of the nation's tallest buildings intermingled with century-old architecture. Culinary prowess abounds with restaurants constantly garnering national and international attention and awards. Long known as a place where business deals are done, Houston is stepping into a more culture-driven era: boutique hotels, hip food halls, and immersive art experiences are enticing experience seekers who come to be awed. Awe lives in Houston.
Checking into Hotel Daphne feels more like entering someone's big, fancy home than going to an impersonal hotel downtown. The months-old boutique inn is located in The Heights neighborhood which is populated with well-maintained older homes shaded by sprawling old trees. Hotel Daphne's signature fragrance envelopes you as you enter the moody maximalist foyer to check in. The room was just as homey and richly-colored as the lobby. The bathroom has forest-green tiles framing the light-green granite countertop that resembles jade. An upholstered headboard extends to the floating nightstands. The lampshades are silk.
Alas, I was there but just a moment before heading out to Doko in the mixed residential and luxury retail area Autry Park. The hip sushi joint truly felt like it wasn't in Texas, really not the United States. Cushy seating lined the sushi bar so that those who really want to be engrossed in the restaurant's show could watch it uninterrupted. Cozy tables made up the rest of the dreamy peachy orange-colored room. It felt ultra-modern made comforting. The Wakame Rita I started with was ocean-tinted from the wakame, but earth due to the spice and sesame seed rim. The lunch deals here don't even seem possible. Between $19 and $25 gets you 3-5 Chef Nigiri Masu Maki. You start off with a traditional roll, and I think it's genius. It allows your belly to fill up so that you eat the upcoming nigiri slowly, savoring every bit.
An extraordinarily fresh and expertly-seasoned course of flounder, amberjack, bluefin tuna, yellowtail, and Norwegian trout followed. Each plump piece of fish was delicately decorated with its signature seasoning: roe, jalapeño, ginger, wasabi. The soft lighting from the table's cute lamp set the mood of this course off perfectly. Our fish was supplemented with some Wagyu Fat Rice with crispy brussel sprouts that created the rich depth of flavor Texas is known for. An egg yolk was placed right in the center of the rice, and it melted through the dish. The dessert needed to be sampled, too. The Black Sesame Cheesecake was spongy in texture. Bits of pressed mango and crackers made of sesame seeds crashed over the cake.
It's always good to have some greens after a heavy meal. I toured Discovery Green in the heart of downtown Houston to see how citizens have lovingly changed a concrete desert into a green space that the public can enjoy. Discovery Green is a public/private partnership created around a row of gorgeous live oaks. Playgrounds, cooling water structures, gardens, and lawns make up the park that is partially built atop a subterranean parking lot (which you would never know is there). You can also hop on a bumper boat or electric boat for a trip in the ponds. My favorite part was the echoing concrete seats. As you sit in one specially designed shell-shaped seat, you can very clearly hear the person in the other seat far away! Those outside the seats can't really hear the conversation, so feel free to spill all of your secrets. Discovery Green often teems with activity being the host of over 500 free events every year.
I wanted to walk from Discovery Green to POST to take in the mix of old and new architecture, massive murals, and street art. The Marriott Marquis's Texas-shaped lazy river has a glass wall facing the street, but this isn't the infamous 40-story high glass pool overhang at Market Square Tower. The JP Morgan Chase Tower is the tallest 5-sided building in the world. Century-old art deco buildings and churches abut ultra modern restaurants and high-rises with pocket parks and trees between them. There's a lot to look at here.
I wasn't expecting a place like POST. I entered the former gargantuan post office and mail sorting facility where people would approach the desks to drop off mail. Once you walk beyond those now silent desks, you enter into a vaporwave-esque retail scape built into the bones of a Cold War-era facility. In fact, the building is required to maintain the ceiling-height supervision tunnels that allowed staff members to covertly watch and listen to mail sorters for subversive activity. The POST Market food hall is the largest feature. Each outlet is emblazoned with a bright, colorful neon sign (several signs are true neon) touting their international flavors. The spiral staircase in the middle leading to the rooftop is emblazoned with neon, too. It made me really excited for an early dinner of Tikka Falafel salad from Bowl'd Masala and a Purple Rain cocktail from Address Unknown with Empress1908 gin, St. Germain, and lavender syrup. The area behind this holding meeting spaces and offices has a cool geometric staircase. Once you take the staircase of your choice up to the rooftop's Skylawn, the whole skyline of Houston ensconces you. Winding paths around native gardens and a 1-acre veggie garden host spaces for picnics, workers trying to destress, and engagement photos. Yoga classes are hosted on the lawns or the glass building.
If that wasn't enough, POST is also home to the rotating art installation Art Club in which you descend into a series of thoughtful and mesmerizing installations. You can take a seat in a chair or big beanbag and lose yourself in the undulating pieces. I particularly enjoyed the flowers hanging from the ceiling that seem to come to life to the sound effects and music playing, floating up and down, opening and closing, changing colors. It was hard to pull away from. The Infinity Room was endless and tricky. I could not tell where the walls were at all and slowly crept around wondering if I was about to run into one. I had one more sneaky treat before leaving, a rose and honey ice cream scoop in a lavender cone with rainbow sprinkles from Flower and Cream; I really wanted it to be just as colorful as this place. I would sneak back here to further explore the building and indulge in a tiger's blood and pina colada Italian ice (with gummy worms) at Gelu and a sea salted coffee at Ice Ice Boba in the coming days. POST made me feel like I was in a re-creation of a 1980s mall seen through the lens of a nostalgic, but still contemporary-minded Millennial.
I wanted to catch a show at a venue that the locals go to, so I went to White Oak Music Hall, and this wasn't the only event happening at White Oak Music Hall that night. In fact, there are 4 stages that can host events simultaneously without impeding on each other. This multi-faceted venue hosts everything from pop to the heaviest of metal, blending fans seamlessly. I enjoy the latter type of music. Deicide was headlining the concert supported by fellow Americans Immolation and Greek's Rotting Christ in the downstairs space. The black band shirts and swinging hair were in full force. Crowd surfers constantly made their way to the front line only to surf back to the front again when the mosh pit wasn't circling. The stately tall wood-laden room is one of the nicest venues I've seen such a show in. Considering the amount of extreme music on the calendar, I admire White Oak's commitment to appeasing music lovers of all types.
A Moving Art Gallery
This Saturday was set to be extra-ordinary. It's the Art Car Parade day! The long velvety couch in front of the window in my room at Hotel Daphne was the perfect spot for applying makeup in natural light. There was something that I absolutely had to do before heading to the route: coffee. In a beautiful old building with striking architectural features lives The Finn. This food hall welcomes you with a gorgeous green terrazzo floor with in-laid gold strips, scents of a variety of dishes like Korean barbecue and tacos, and the promise of an exquisite meal. The cocktail bar right in the middle even had a few Louisiana beers on tap next to local ones. I adored that Three Keys Coffee had a strong music theme. The menu was divided into A Side, B Side and Improv. This hot latte was paired with a Lemon Ricotta Toast and Wellness Shot from the Cranky Carrot. The toast was exquisite with a layer of lemon zest-infused ricotta, slices of avocado, a glittering of pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds. Springs of fresh parsley lent freshness and a healthy drizzle of hot honey added richness. I should note that Michelin-recommended Papalo Taqueria had already sold out of breakfast when I arrived.
It seemed like the whole city was out and about for the Orange Show Center's 39th Annual Art Car Parade. Citizens and visitors lined the streets awaiting the show and perusing the cars lined up before they rolled. Those who wanted a primo spot opted for the VIPit experience with bites and drinks from local restaurants and businesses. The Picos Shaker Margaritas in bags attached to the lanyards like they were meant to do that. The art cars are indescribable. The most stunning cars had pieces built onto them and covered in mosaics of found objects. Others had people in costume as part of the art. A video of one such car went viral as it appeared to be a creature eating a live human, but not in a scary way. The Gretapocalypse was a loving tribute to climate activist Greta Thunberg. The Mad Max-esque truck atop another truck bore the legend, "Forty years from now, Greta roams the desert with her all-girl army protecting the innocent from The Planet Killers." Even though there were a few rounds of rain, it didn't stop the Houston community from supporting this long-running, one-of-a-kind showcase of creativity.
After some time of watching the art cars roll by, I pulled myself away to head to the Museum District to catch one of the last days of the Death By Natural Causes exhibit at the Museum of Natural Science. The macabre exhibit explored just how deadly the natural world can be via plants, animals, and elements used in glassware and clothing. One interactive feature projected what a venomous snake bite and the subsequent necrosis looks like on your hand. The Museum is large, and you really need more time than you think. There was an extensive ancient Egyptian exhibit complete with several real mummies, and that doesn't include the ticketed King Tutankhamun exhibit. The long-standing natural gems and crystals, Faberge, and seashell exhibits were busy as well.
Not too far away and hidden inside a Betelgeuse Pizza & Cocktails is Endless Bummer tiki bar beyond the hall of mirrors and behind the black door. You immerse into a sexy tiki nightmare with freaky dioramas, rock walls, and fiery drinks. I had the Painkiller served in a skull mug. This is a great place to get all of your drool-inducing social media photos with colorful lights and weird backgrounds. I snuck back to The Finn to experience HiFi which finally opened in the afternoon. This sexy second-story space is not just music-forward, but vinyl-forward (hence the name). Regal wood paneling lines the walls so that your focus is pulled up towards the record-studded ceiling. I tried out the Smoke & Mirrors tequila, agave, and orange cocktail which was smoked under a globe atop of a, you guessed it, vinyl record. That's a trick I'll have to use at home.
Two live music events were on tap for tonight. The first stop was the beautiful urban oasis The Ismaili Center for a special show unlike anything I've seen before. The black box theater performance featured Raheleh and Reza Filsoofi playing a ShahTár, a four-string experimental rug instrument that sits on the floor. Around the stage, 8 musicians with a variety of instruments sat ready to add light accompaniment. Raheleh stated that the ShahTár is "not an instrument but an experience" and that it is "not to be mastered, but to be approached." She often lent poetry to the silent audience while Reza played it or another soothing instrument. The concert entitled "Listening: The Fourth String" was a thoughtful resonance of harmony with nature, each other, and ourselves.
The tower of neon at Doc's Jazz Club was hard to miss. Well dressed patrons flocked to it for the sold-out 9 PM seating; they were sat at tables lining the floor and semi-round mezzanine. The patrons seemed to be in excellent spirts, excited for not just the show, but the entire experience. Before the big band took the stage, I had the refreshing Garden Party gin and tonic flavored with jalapeno oleo, rosewater, and pink peppercorn and a hearty Roasted Marinara Pizza. The hot, thick slices had long strings of melty cheese clinging to the other slices as you pulled them apart; that's a mark of a perfect pizza. The table was given a bowl of potato chips that added a delightful crunch between bites and sips. The 12-piece band filled the stage, and they quickly swung into "Almost Like Being in Love" followed by "The Way You Look Tonight." I remembered how much I love swing and big band music, and I intimately knew many of these happy tunes. Our lady singer said this was her first time singing old jazz for the public, but she could have fooled me. She did an amazing job tackling songs like Ella Fitzgerald's "Indeed I Do" and Aretha Franklin's "Moon River." I hope it is not the last time because she was great and she looked like she really enjoyed it. It was fascinating to learn that trombone player Andre Hayward, a clinician from Washington State University, filled in with just a few hours notice.
The show felt endless because we got lost in the music and the stories. I had a classic gin fizz with the loveliest adornments of pink hearts in the foam to round out the evening. It's interesting to note that there was a show here before this one, and there would be one after. You wouldn't know that based on the special care with which you are handled by Doc's staff and musicians. You'd think you were the only audience all night.
Eye-Popping Arrays
This would prove to be a very colorful Sunday. Buttermilk Baby is a retro-tinted dream in a new, upscale lifestyle center at the south end of The Heights. My face lit up as I approached the seafoam and baby pink restaurant. The windows have holographic tint and real neon signs in pink and teal casts a vapor wave glow over the seating area. There are so many places to have fun photo moments like the ice cream tower and the candy-filled bar. Even each of the three bathroom areas are differently decorated with disco balls in overhead in the waiting area. I was excited to try out the seasonal Spring Chicken Sandwich with a side of my favorite chicken tenders and fries.
The sandwich was simple and well-made with fresh lettuce and tomato, lemon parmesan panko chicken and a bit of lemon aioli. It wasn't wild or over the top; it was just right. The tenders are juicy and large with breading texture like that of Popeyes. Buttermilk Baby's signature sauce sets them off with a blend of mayo, ketchup, onions, and relish. I loved the boozy Espresso Shake; it was the perfect blend of retro dessert, caffeine kick, and libation. The top had a few chocolate espresso beans that go along with this Candy Land setting.
The imposing grey exterior and minimalist white interior belie the colorful wonders within Artechouse. This Houston location is nearly two years old, but the company has three other locations spanning the east coast. Artechouse is a grand-scale art installation in simple terms and a mind-expanding delve into the intersection of art and science in more complex terms. Over 26,000 square feet, the various pieces immerse you. Mei Tamazawa created some of the floral-themed works that allow you to see or play with digital floral projections and games. Shohei Fujimoto's Intangible Forms involves red lasers, mirrors, and the illusions the two can make when properly put together. I could not take my eyes off one piece where a series of two-story tall laser beams created a moving sculpture that constantly changed patterns. Artechouse's art doesn't stop at the installations. XR Bar has adult beverages that put on a show. The Artechouse app's AR program makes a flurry of flowers and butterflies stem from your drink. I had the Timeless Buttery with gin, jasmine and chamomile reduction, and lemon that danced with digital butterflies when the app was activated.
There's yet another large-scale, hard-to-explain art installation in town. I can't not take a trip down the rabbit hole that is Meow Wolf when in its vicinity. Houston's Meow Wolf entitled Radio Tave immerses you in the tale of Houston-based radio station ETNL that winds up transported to a cosmic location. This installation lets you loose into a seemingly normal radio station that starts to get really weird once you wend through the halls, offices, and broadcast booths. Radio Tave is not quite as large as other Meow Wolf's, but it has some fascinating features. Cowboix Hevvven is a seemingly an average dive bar (and you can get food and drinks here). The cosmic cowboy literally crying in his beer in the phone booth and the poker-playing aliens aren't usual bar fixtures, however. If you deep dive into the books, journals, videos, and podcasts put together for you to find, you can easily spend hours here trying to understand how this station traveled across the universe and became one with it.
I was excited for dinner at Candente. This is the only Tex-Mex Houston restaurant to be recommended by Michelin. Granted there are several Mexican restaurants, Barbecue restaurants, and American restaurants, but Tex-Mex is the true flavor of Texas. Candente resides in the tree-covered Montrose neighborhood; the covered patio has babbling fountain for added relaxation. I chose to sit al fresco, but you can see the entire interior through the wall of glass beyond the Roman arches. I love a place that brings out tortilla chips with nice big bowls of salsa right away. Indeed, the salsa had a well balanced mix of smoke, salt, and acid. It's spicy for sure, but not too intense for my sensibilities. I couldn't quite figure out what the other bowl was after several dips. My server informed me that this is a unique blend of heavy cream, cilantro, pickled jalapeño juice, mayo, and garlic. If I can figure out this ratio at home, I'm going to make it all the time. Creamy, fresh, and still decadent perfection!
The Mezcal Margarita caught my eye. I loved the rich smokey flavor of the Amaras Verde Mezcal paired with the spicy rim. That smokiness complemented the Portabello Mushroom & Peppers Fajitas that came out smoking like a chimney. I wouldn't have thought the massive mushroom head sliced into strips wasn't meat. The char was incredible thanks to the gaucho-style wood-fire grill. The bell peppers and onions had just released their juices when plated. Along with the toppings of cheese, sour cream, pico de gallo, the ingredients were simple and high quality. Nothing is overworked. However, there was an available chili-infused butter to pour over the shroom strips which was a first for me. That really further deepened the flavor and still didn't overtake the smoke.
I couldn't take another bite, but also couldn't let go. I took some of the shrooms and peppers back to Daphne Hotel for a morning snack.
More Magic
I finally had the opportunity to take in the 160 acre Buffalo Bayou Park that runs alongside the winding waterway through the heart of the city. The Buffalo Bayou Partnership (a peer to the Lafitte Greenway Partnership) is working to expand the park which is currently 10 miles long even further in the coming years. It is a particular asset of the park that I went to see just before it opened to the public. The Cistern is a 100-year-old underground drinking water reservoir that was closed for many years before being rediscovered during the construction of the park. The cavernous space is now a large-scale art installation space with incredible artworks changing every few months. When it was used, the cistern held up to 15 million gallons of water. Today, the floor holds just enough water to create a reflection illusion that the cistern is twice as tall as it really is. Currently, artist Rafael Lozano-Hemmer's creation Undercurrents is on display. In the darkened space, visitors can speak and watch their sound move through a series of lights traveling through the pillars. At other times, recorded poetry is played to pulses of light. Undercurrents is on display until January 2027.
There was just one more stop before hitting the airport. This is a last stop for many people. The National Museum of Funeral History at the Commonwealth Institute of Funeral Service is a must-see for those curious about the post-mortem process. Scaredy cats should know that there's nothing gory or scary here. This is a matter-of-fact museum about the history of funerals, how cremations work, and how different cultures deal with death. There are many hearses to take in, and I really liked the funeral literature of famous people section. There was an extensive area dedicated to Catholicism: you can walk through a series showcasing the extensive process of events surrounding the pope's demise. The museum is proud to have a detailed replica of the Shroud of Jesus. New Orleanians will love the area explaining jazz funerals and the unique funeral of Uncle Lionel Batiste.
Houston's art, culture, and food induces awe on every level. Did you know that this Texan city has the second most performing arts seats in the country, second only to New York City? It's impossible to come here and not find something to explore and truly enjoy.
