Something Fishy
From the fryer to fellowship, fish fries have evolved into one of the city's most spirited Lenten traditions.
As Mardi Gras comes to a close and the procession of police on horseback clear Bourbon Street, New Orleanians young and old are reminded that the following day begins the season of Lent. Catholics throughout the Deep South observe the tradition of avoiding meat on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and all Fridays in Lent.
In early Christianity, meat was costly and associated with indulgence, so avoiding it became a meaningful act of penance. By the 2nd and 3rd centuries, writers recorded that Christians were already fasting and abstaining from meat in preparation for Easter. As of the 4th century, the Church began shaping these customs into a 40-day Lenten fast.
"During the Lenten season, Catholics are asked to practice prayer, fasting, and almsgiving," said Sarah McDonald, director of communications for the Archdiocese of New Orleans. "They are also asked to abstain from eating meat on Ash Wednesday and all the Fridays of Lent. In observing this practice, particularly in South Louisiana where fish of all kinds are plentiful, fried fish became a staple meal among people of all income levels."
In southern Louisiana, communal fish-frying gatherings emerged during the early to mid-19th century and remained largely unchanged for nearly a century. Originally, the term "fish fry" referred simply to social gatherings centered around fried fish, not specifically to Lent or Catholic abstinence practices; however, the concept of the modern-day fish fry appeared in later years.
The Clarion Herald archives reveal that church-organized fish fry fundraisers date to the 1950s, illustrated by a 1963 Catholic Northwest Progress ad for the sixth annual St. Margaret Parish "Fish 'n' Chips" dinner sponsored by the Holy Name Society. Tickets then cost $1.25 for adults and 75 cents for children.
Today, fish fries are widespread in Catholic parishes across the city, which are offered as sit-down cafeteria meals or convenient drive-thru service takeout. Donaldson explained that although the parish fish fries may have changed over the years, "the focus is the same—building community and abstaining from eating meat while benefitting a charitable cause." She noted that while the Knights of Columbus or the parish Men's Club usually lead the effort, many groups across the archdiocese help make the fish fries successful.
Knights of Columbus District Deputy of District No. 10 Mike Centola is one key figure who oversees the four KC councils that sponsor fish fries for St. Francis Xavier, St. Catherine of Siena, St. Christopher, and the Ludvicum at St. Louis, King of France. He also actively helps with the Friday night fish fry at St. Andrew the Apostle in Algiers. "The majority of Lenten fish fries are done by the Knights of Columbus and the dads' clubs at the council homes and school cafeterias," Centola said.
He credits an uptick in fish fry sales to the incredibly tasty seafood and variety of menu options. "This is a phenomenal value for the quality of food, ranging anywhere from $10 to $17 for a full meal," Centola said. "Every year, the menu is a little different to draw people in and make it affordable. But, the key is to put out a good product."
Generally, the menu features fried fish or fried shrimp, or both, served with corn or green beans, French fries, and a roll. "Some councils add specials like shrimp fettuccini, shrimp Creole, or a soft shell crab plate, but everybody serves gumbo," said Centola, who estimates over 75 parishes in southern Louisiana host a fish fry. He indicated that one council may sell anywhere between 300-500 meals per night depending upon the number of people in the parish. "If they have a drive-thru, they may sell more," he emphasized. "People can just drive through and pick up their meals."
At St. Benilde Church in Metairie, Matt Zeringue, president of the Men's Club, primarily offers the dine-in option for their fish fry event in Lent. "The sit-down fish fry seems to be going away," Zeringue said. "Our parish enjoys coming together and sitting down in observance of Lent."
For nearly 40 years, Zeringue said, Men's Club members have cooked and served a variety of seafood to the parish community. Their menu has always provided fried fish and shrimp, but in recent years, they have added Thai shrimp tacos, seafood gumbo, and even grilled redfish with cream sauce when available. "We sell over 200 plates per night," he stated. "Our members all get involved because it is a fundraiser for the parish."
Additionally, some parishes sell their Lenten plates exclusively for curbside pickup. At St. Joan of Arc in LaPlace, the Knights of Columbus Council No. 5935 serves hot, drive-thru dinners featuring fresh Des Allemands catfish, Gulf shrimp, or a combo plate with sides for $14 to $15, along with cold shrimp pasta, $5 cheese sticks, and $8 seafood kickers. "This is a quick meal to get and go," Deputy Grand Knight Jared Cazenave said. "We do not push anyone away if they would like to come in the hall to eat, but this makes it easier for families with their busy schedules to get together on Friday nights and participate in the Lenten tradition."
Nevertheless, Lent marks a shift from celebration to contemplation in Greater New Orleans area communities. Fish fries provide a time for faith, food, and fellowship, bringing people of many backgrounds together. "This is a tradition that people cherish. There are very dedicated volunteers that make these happen year after year and hold on to specific parish-based recipes," McDonald said. "We've seen our Protestant brothers and sisters adopt this custom in New Orleans, as well as some local restaurants."
