Get Gussied Up
In New Orleans, the mercury doesn't just rise in July and August—it settles in for a long, humid stay.
In most American cities, this kind of heat is a white flag for fashion, an excuse to retreat into athletic wear. But here, where the heavy scent of night-blooming jasmine competes with the hot afternoon air, we have a different set of rules, despite the temperature. For New Orleans fine dining, the costume is just as important as the cuisine.
To be honest, setting out to interview the "Old Guard" of the New Orleans fashion scene, a lecture was expected, as was a list of hard-and-fast rules delivered with a side of traditionalism, but while interviewing David W. Perlis of the legendary Perlis Clothing (a Louisiana tradition since 1939), the incomparable Yvonne LaFleur (the Riverbend's fashion doyenne since 1969), and the storied Bonnie Broel, something else happened. These legends aren't interested in being the fashion police. They're passionate about helping you experience cherished moments with those that you love.
There is a common misconception among tourists that New Orleans dress codes are about exclusion. Perhaps that was true a few decades ago, but now everyone's committed to revelry and inclusion. The experts want you to be respectful of your companions and to have fun.
"I do think that when you're having a fine dining experience, it's probably for a celebration in life, so you want to get gussied up to really make it special," Yvonne LaFleur said, her voice radiating the kind of timeless elegance that has recently made her a viral sensation. "I just feel that dressing is very important. And the more you dress up, the better you feel." It was a sentiment echoed across every interview.
Despite expecting talks of social standing, talks of soul emerged instead. As LaFleur put it so simply, "Be comfortable in your own skin."
For the uninitiated, the "rules" of New Orleans summer fashion can feel like a secret language, but the core tenets remain—Easter to Labor Day. This is the window for seersucker, linen, and white shoes. For men, Perlis explained that the "sport coat" is the workhorse of the summer wardrobe. Modern constructions have evolved to be lighter and softer in the shoulder, a "hybrid" that breathes in the humidity but keeps the chill off in a heavily air-conditioned dining room.
And if you forget your jacket? Bonnie Broel says that the "loaner jacket" culture is still alive and well at institutions such as Galatoire's. It's a quirky New Orleans tradition that ensures the dining room maintains its aesthetic integrity, even if a traveler's luggage didn't make the flight. It isn't about punishing the guest. It's about helping them "look the part" for a world-class experience. Broel was quick to point out that even this tradition is less about strict enforcement and more about the "feeling" of the evening—ensuring every guest feels like they belong in such a storied atmosphere.
One of the most profound insights from these interviews is the evolving meaning of "fine dining" in New Orleans. A jacket that was once required is now recommended at locations such as Commander's Palace. "In New Orleans, fine dining could be an oyster po-boy," LaFleur noted.
This creates a unique challenge for the visitor. How do you know when to reach for the seersucker and when to stay in your sundress?
LaFleur's advice for the traveler is simple, "The little black dress always works with a strand of pearls, and you could dress it up or down." Perlis suggests checking apps such as Resy or OpenTable, which often feature specific dress code rules for each establishment. But more than that, he emphasizes that the effort is the point. While the world has become less formal, people are still choosing to wear jackets to restaurants because they want to look as special as the meal will be.
Beyond the fabric and the fit, there is also a deeper etiquette at play. LaFleur points out a modern "fashion faux pas" that no amount of accessories can fix—the cell phone. "Don't you go to a restaurant and see six people sitting there, all on their cell phones?" she asked. "Enjoy the moment with those people. Who knows if they'll be here tomorrow?"
This is the true secret of New Orleans style. We don't dress up to impress the strangers at the next table. We dress up to honor the people we are with and the city we are in. We dress up because every meal is a performance and every celebration deserves a little starch.
If you find yourself in the Crescent City this summer with nothing but a suitcase full of denim, don't panic. You have two legendary destinations to get you "gussied up."
• For the gentlemen: Visit Perlis at 6070 Magazine St. This family-owned institution has been the go-to for seersucker and linen since 1939.
• For the ladies: Step into Yvonne LaFleur at 8131 Hampson St. LaFleur has curated her boutique like a "big closet" since 1969, offering everything from custom millinery to her signature fragrance.
As you prepare for your reservation, remember the collective wisdom of our city's fashion icons. It's not about the label. It's about the spirit. Keep your clothes neat and keep your skin hydrated. LaFleur swears by a "hot face cloth," as well as consistent skincare. And, above all, just have fun. In New Orleans, the best accessory you can wear is the joy of being exactly where you are.
