Jackson, Mississippi sits less than three hours north of New Orleans, and our cities are inextricably linked by history. The City of New Orleans has been riding citizens between them since 1947. By Amtrak Train, Greyhound Bus, or by car, this classic day or weekend road trip is better than ever as Jackson's intriguing past is mixing with a worldly present. Adding to the everyday culture of music, food, and fun on the particular weekend that I ventured up, Cathead Distillery was hosting its fourth Cathead Jam festival. The music-centric fest was on a roll before the pandemic struck before being revived in 2023. This event brought forth bands from Jackson as well as all over the country.
Going to Cathead Jam
I checked into the immaculate Westin Jackson, an airy, delightful respite in the midst of the city's administrative building area. Guitars of some of the best musicians of our time including Elvis Presley and Prince lined the wall. There was little time to relax here as I was ready to get to Cathead Distillery for a tour. It was a very easy walk; the distillery is visible from the hotel and sits just two blocks away.
The Cathead Distillery was celebrating community and music with the 4th Annual Cathead Jam right at the distillery. Cathead was founded in 2010, but it quickly outgrew its initial operational building.
In 2015, Cathead Distillery found a new home inside a historic public school book warehouse that sat alongside a railroad track that is no longer in service. Remnants of the track remain so that you can see where the train cars would offload the products on the porch where you'll now enjoy a cool drink on a lazy afternoon.
Cathead Distillery wasn't at all lazy on the first day of Cathead Jam by Dreamnote Foundation, however. While I marveled at the beautiful old building filled to the tall roof with stills, tanks, and products ready to ship, staff members got prepared for an afternoon of musical entertainment and lots of guests. I already knew about the line of high-quality vodkas (the Honeysuckle is always a winner), I became acquainted with Bristow Gin and aged gins, Hoodoo Chicory Liqueur, and the new ready-to-serve Hoodoo Espresso Martini.
The Old Soul Bourbon line allowed Cathead's commitment to music makers and Mississippi to really shine. The Tintype Series features poignant photography of famous bluesmen; the storied, unfiltered whiskey is as rich and deep as the music that the distillery supports with a portion of their profits.
Knowing that the state of Mississippi didn't repeal Prohibition until 1967 and still has very few distilleries and breweries compared to other states, it was heartwarming to see how the Jackson community embraced this experience with their friends and families.
Just before the festival kicked off, I walked over to Iron Horse Grill. The smokey aroma immediately overtook my senses upon entering. This primal scent can get anyone in the mood to eat. Like Cathead Distillery, this building was also designed to warehouse items that came off of the train cars that stopped right outside the door. A toy train rides throughout a few rooms to lead the eye to the historical photos of Jackson's downtown. The towering two story dining room and industrial decor highlighted the glass wall showcasing the grill in the busy kitchen and custom-built zinc draft system and bartop. The downstairs stage was awaiting a band; Iron Horse Grill has live music several nights every week and a weekend jazz brunch.
I wanted to dive deep into the intense smoke aroma by sipping with a Devil's Harvest from Southern Prohibition Brewery and the Navajo Chicken. A big juicy chicken breast quickly arrived in front of me. The massive piece of meat tasted like a summer campfire that was covered in cheese and hefty mushrooms. The addition of squash and a baked potato rounded out this huge plate that I could not finish.
The staff informed me that there is a great museum upstairs that I should see if I like music. I was amazed by this collection! You are taken through Mississippi's musical history with informative plaques and life-size figures of musicians made by award-winning dollmaker artist Anne Robin Luckett including Robert Johnson, Jimmy Buffett, Mick Jagger, and Elvis Presley (who was standing next to Darth Vader). From Dockery Farms through to Blind Melon, Mississippi's influence on modern music is thoroughly illustrated. There was a wealth of information here that everyone who is in town should see.
Walking back to Cathead Jam, Twurt Chamberlain was just getting started opening the stage with a full cool band. His gruff sounds mixed in an interesting way with the smooth rock music. Speaking of interesting mixes, the drinks were flowing from the long bar inside. I chose a simple and refreshing cocktail of Cathead's Honeysuckle Vodka and sparkling wine to bring outside for the rest of the bands.
Joslyn & The Sweet Compression came all the way from Lexington, KY to thrill us. Joslyn herself belted out alongside her funky band that included a horn section. Her powerful croon and colorful dress may have only been upstaged momentarily by her fanciful fan. The SUSTO Stringband was a departure from the flowy, sweet tunes of Joslyn. The full band of 6 lined up with a fiddle, mandolin, cello, acoustic guitars, and a banjo to play old-time music. Banjo player Helena told a heartwarming tale about how she finally bonded with her mom's boyfriend over him teaching her how to play the upcoming song.
The endearing moment ended when another member said, "This is a string band after all. So I'll sing y'all a couple lovely songs about death and suffering." It may have had bleak lyrics, but it sounded lovely to me. SUSTO's set was not without humor, however. The Asheville, NC-based band discussed how they used to tour in an E350 van, and they wrote a song about the landlord trying to get them to move it after it broke down. This song had a lyric that I will be using about my car when it no longer moves: "It ain't broke, it's just taking a break."
Finally, the hot sun was setting behind us, and more people came in after work to crowd around the stage which was now aglow with lights. Neal Francis was popular with this group that seemed to really enjoy a good jam session; this is Cathead Jam after all. The band took the stage with sunglass-wearing Neal leading the vocals as he switched between keys, organ, and other instruments. The upbeat rock sent a mellowing vibe over the grooving crowd who got lost in the pockets. The ebb and flow between the longtime members was palpable, like they were speaking to each other without words. Though I left before the final song, I could still hear the beat from my large, comfortable bed at the Westin. I dabbed the lavender oil that the Westin provided onto my temples for an extra deep sleep.
A Classic Southern Breakfast
I headed off to the Fondren District to explore its nostalgic, retro, and hip eateries and stores. Brent's Drugs is indeed a treasure from another century. The diner hasn't changed much in almost 80 years except for the fact that medications haven't been sold here since 2009. I know this because the story of the diner's past as a pharmacy was lovingly written on the menu. Old photos of the city past line the vibrant green wall to illustrate the tale.
I got a stack of buttermilk pancakes and bacon with a steamy side of fries and black coffee. I know this is a slightly strange pairing, but I feel you can get a great sense of a restaurant's culinary abilities from the simple staple. I an indeed glad I got them because they were seasoned with salt, herbs, and a little sugar, unlike anything I've tried before. The thick bacon slices were crispy as I like it. The pancakes were challenging in a great way. They were so big and so fluffy that I could only finish two. Actually, one and a half.
The menu also explained that there's a notable speakeasy in the back of the restaurant called The Apothecary, and it has garnered top spots on several national best bar lists. I planned to show up this afternoon to see why it has so many mentions.
I needed a little walk around the Fondren District to digest. The buildings that line the pretty blocks that make up Fondren certainly do have an old-school main street look to them. Art Deco and post-modern influences on the facades haven't changed in many decades. The businesses that reside within them have. I found my way to The End of All Music and perused the records from new releases to pre-loved.
I eventually went back to the Westin Jackson so that I could walk over to the Mississippi Museum of Art which was free on the first Saturday of the month. The art may have been arranged in such a way that you walked through time beginning with pre-Columbian pottery from burial sites not too far away that remained in pristine condition to paintings and sculptures from the last few decades. Even some of James "Son" Thomas' Cathead sculptures (the inspiration behind the name and logo of Cathead Distillery) were on display.
I took a brief walk through MMA's gardens to get to Cathead Jam across the street that was beginning to buzz with activity. The Rumble from New Orleans had a full, rich sound provided by horns, keys, punchy bass, and great drums. The Mardi Gras Indian inspiration got the crowd excited and dancing in the sun despite the heat. The singer commented on the audience's dedication saying that they would be good people forever for that. It was hard not to pay the utmost attention to their commanding style.
I feel like The Rumble's earth-shaking performance moved the wind itself. Strong breezes began blowing just enough to provide a little relief by the time Mikaela Davis and crew took the stage. Mikaela is the first person I've seen play a harp hooked up to pedals. The lighthearted folksy rock music was made more heavenly with the harp's tinkling notes and the addition of a steel guitar. Mikaela also does gorgeous vocals.
It was nearing the time to head back to the Fondren District for hometown eats and more. Pig & Pint has a bounty of trophies lining the wall, and they have placed at Hogs for the Cause. Clearly, they're great for traditional barbecue, so I wanted to see what they can do with fried green tomatoes in a taco with a side of fries, obviously. I got the rundown about the bevy of sauces available on the table, and I absolutely tried each. The two tacos were overloaded with Comeback Coleslaw that were a good canvas for a splattering of spicy, smokey BBQ sauce. The meaty fries were hand-cut and almost as smokey as the aroma in the room.
It was finally 5 PM, so I went back to Brent's Diner to sneak into The Apothecary that sits beyond a case of remnants from the former pharmacy. The dim lights of the speakeasy belied the summer sun and heat trying to break through the three small curtained windows. It is a sophisticated and sexy barroom. Those hoping to have deep conversations will take the deep leather seats along the wall. Those wanting a show roll suit at the marble top bar.
The wall behind the bar where you would normally see a row of liquor bottles is topped with an antique drawer system and some more pharmacy relics. Though the menu is extensive, I selected the happy hour offering of The Freezer Martini. This beauty was a welcome drink as the light lemon flavor and ice cold temperature were so refreshing. The ice chips really cooled my tongue from the lingering heat of the barbecue sauce.
Strfkr brought out a large crowd to hear their mellow, poppy tunes. In fact, The End of All Music record store closed early just so they could come out for this performance. I grabbed one of Cathead Distillery's ice cold canned cocktails and sat down to absorb this set. The even tempo and happy aura was a perfect match for the relaxing of the heat and setting of the sun. Psychedelic landscapes took over the two screens along the stage. "This is our first time in Jackson" Joshua Hodges announced.
The group seamlessly flowed between long, ethereal songs. Two spacesuit-clad creatures joined them for a few, dancing alongside the members happily. I think that the crowd, who melted into the mellow beats, perked up a bit when Strfkr did a cover of "Girls Just Want To Have Fun."
Darkness fell, and Cathead Distillery's grounds filled with music lovers wanting moe. (pun intended). The members of moe. were difficult to make out as just their silhouettes could be seen among the cool blue lights that later changed into a dazzling mix of yellow, red, and green. The long, wordless grooves of the opening songs "Lazarus," "Not Coming Down," and "Wormwood" cast the audience into a deep trance that only the transcendent guitar work of Chuck Garvey and Al Schnier could awake them from.
Beams of lights as sharp as lasers shone out from behind them while a dense cloud of fog shrouded the stage. The sounds emanated forth from this mysterious haze. The drums and bongo set added a very full quality to the music. "Blue Jeans Pizza," "Crushing," and "The Pit" rounded out the first set. There was a short break to mix and mingle under the stars before a second set began. I floated off to my room still listening to the smooth jams coming from Cathead.
A Big Slice of History
I spent a leisurely Sunday morning in my room making coffee and lounging in bed and planning my last day. Before I fully vacated the Westin Jackson, I ventured through the great hall where the meeting rooms sit, and the walls were absolutely filled with local art. Maybe I should say art showcasing local culture. Doll artist Anne Robin Luckett's Sippians (Mississippi sprite figures) playfully explained lesser-known aspects of their homestate like how Jim Henson made The Muppets here, and the USA Ballet Competition is held here every few years.
I headed to Hal & Mal's for a very late breakfast. Like other places I've visited this historic building was once a freight depot. These buildings were erected to withstand the worst of the elements and protect the important wares within it. Hal & Mal's is nostalgic in style yet innovative and creative in cuisine, and it still houses important wares. Every inch of the walls are festooned with music memorabilia, colorful paintings, and photos, and diners can't help but walk around to see it all. Hot electric blues played at a more than subtle volume.
I was told to try out the literal pitcher of tater tots, so that's what I had first. This dish is truly scandalous. The steaming hot crispy tots do indeed arrive in a pitcher with a side of Crystal Hot Sauce remoulade. I didn't require the provided tongs as I just dug into the pitcher manually and dunked each tot in that tangy sauce. I knew I wouldn't be able to finish it but took them as a road snack... and breakfast the next day.
Not to be outdone, I had the Salmon All the Way for a main course. I have eaten a lot of salmon, but I've never experienced it this way. It was as much as a sight to behold as the tot pitcher. A huge plate was sat before me. Crispy potato wedges and chips intermingled with chorizo and peppers; this mashup provided a bed for the large salmon steak covered in creme fraiche and a significant amount of caviar. A forkful of moist salmon had a salty, tangy punch from the caviar and creme, then the potatoes and chorizo provided more savory roundness. My sodium levels were off the charts, but I had enough water to counter it.
Just down the street, Two Mississippi Museums are complimentary to guests on Sundays as well as having a free parking garage. This is an incredible deal considering the absolute wealth that awaits within them. Having gone through them now, I can say I was stunned by The Mississippi Museum of History and Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, and I needed way more time to go through them than I thought I would. In fact, the stories presented by the museums begin 15,000 years ago.
The Mississippi Museum of History starts in a round theater that appears to be a campfire in the middle of a forest at night. Narrator Morgan Freeman started the story of the state with the Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes. From colonists claiming territory and forcing native people to other areas, the Civil War, the short-lived rise of Black politicians during Reconstruction and the subsequent malicious oppression of Black Mississippians, the tale wove around the room and into the campfire stack of screens. A more diverse, proud state finally shone through as the doors opened into the museum.
The immersive exhibits allowed you to travel through time starting with the introduction of humans to this area. Some of the signage in the museum is in native languages alongside English, and certain absent displays were removed so that the museum's Native American partners could better explain the pieces henceforth. I enjoyed learning the history of mounds in the state that are older than the Egyptian pyramids.
The extensive collections were intertwined with video presentations to succinctly explain certain important periods like statehood, the Civil War, the development of the Delta, and the modern era. The immense economy of cotton during and after slavery was highlighted by early and modern cotton gins. You could step into a blues bar to select a song from the jukebox and watch the Mississippi musician perform it on the screen.
After a few hours of deep exploration here, I entered into the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum across the great hall that was just as extensive and immersive as the first museum. You are transported through time into several rooms that convene on a rotunda jeweled with a stunning light sculpture. Each of the rooms delve into different periods of the Black experience in Mississippi. There are many small theaters throughout in which the doors close automatically to allow the viewers to be ensconced in a scene. The school room theater is split into segregated sides. Another theater explains how Emmett Till was kidnapped and murdered. Foreboding Klan memorabilia de-masks the bigots who instilled fear in their neighbors.
All of these issues lead to Freedom Summer when idealistic youths and adults from around the country came to Mississippi to register people to vote even as they were arrested or worse. I sat in a church-like theater by myself and learned what it was like to be a Freedom Rider, unsure of what was to come from encouraging people to get out and vote. While the stories were inspiring, crashes of breaking glass and angry people would break through the inspiring speeches, illustrating the turbulence that happened not even that long ago. These two Mississippi museums were exceptional; the amount of detailed history, immersive areas, and engagement is unparalleled by most other museums I've visited.
My time at the Two Mississippi Museums still wasn't done. Chef Nick Wallace helms the resident restaurant Nissan Cafe which features soups, salads, sandwiches, and entrees that are inspired by Chef Nick's childhood in rural Mississippi and his worldwide culinary education. Still very full from Hal & Mal's even with a lot of walking, I chose a bowl of Mississippi Gumbo which bore the tagline "(Only The Best)." I've certainly not tasted gumbo like this. The stew has a rich brown coloring and white rice lumped in the middle, but a spoonful revealed black eyed peas and butterbeans where the trinity would usually be. Turkey took the place of chicken, and collards swam alongside the okra. This earthy gumbo had a great chew thanks to the beans, and the turkey certainly adds a great flavor base.
Jackson, Mississippi is the City With Soul because it has contemporary sights and spots while retaining all of its old charm that has inspired songs and films. Like Johnny Cash and June Carter sang, "I'm going to Jackson, ain't never coming back."
