Years of Decadence
New Orleans is a pretty gay city on any given day, but during the last weekend of August, it becomes a truly decadent affair.
This year marks the 52nd Southern Decadence celebration, a bounty of LGBTQ+ events happening August 29 through September 2 throughout the French Quarter. There are parties all weekend long, including the walking parade on Sunday afternoon.
According to the Southern Decadence website, it is the top gay Labor Day weekend destination, and "recent attendance has broken all records, with over 275,000 gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender participants, and an economic impact estimated to be in excess of $285 million."
History of Decadence
Back in 1972, a group of friends living in Tremé planned a going away party for a friend named David Randolph with a riff on Tennessee Williams' Belle Reve in A Streetcar Named Desire, and they named it a "Southern Decadence Party: Come as Your Favorite Southern Decadent." All guests had to dress as their favorite decadent Southern character. The next year, the group threw another Southern Decadence party. They met at Matassa's Bar in the French Quarter, decked out in costumes, and took a stroll back to Belle Reve. This would be the first "parade," and with each passing year, Southern Decadence would continue to grow.
In the early '80s, Grand Marshal V Robert King was the only one left of the original group, and it was during this time that Southern Decadence would be a mostly gay event. They also decided to start the parade at the Golden Lantern Bar. More changes would come over the years and after has now morphed into several days of non-stop events and festivities.
This Year's Theme and Grand Marshal
This year's grand marshals include Vanessa Carr Kennedy, Paribe Meyer, and Jeffrey Mayeux, and the theme will be "Birds of a Feather Flock Together." This year's official charity is the New Orleans Advocates for LGBTQ+ Elders, and the grand marshals will also make a contribution to help pay the cost of replacing the UpStairs Lounge memorial plaque, which was stolen in April 2024.
Grand marshals have a lot of responsibilities. According to Frank Perez, who was grand marshal in 2018, "The grand marshal is responsible for producing and leading the parade, which is always on the Sunday before Labor Day. The GMs in recent years have appointed a parade captain who handles the logistics of the parade, but the GMs still raise the money to pay for the parade. Costs include the parade permit, parade insurance, security detail, sanitation, costumes, and a host of other expenses. These funds are raised throughout the summer at bar events and other fundraisers. They also accept sponsorships from individuals and businesses. The GMs host a luncheon for the former grand marshals a week before the parade, and the lunch is followed by a bar crawl."
Major Events
The intersection of Bourbon and St. Ann is the gay heart of New Orleans and is where most of the happenings for Southern Decadence occur. The Bourbon Pub video bar and the Parade dance club are packed with revelers on Decadence weekend.
Last year's events included lively events such as the Battle of the Biggest Bulge Contest, Boys on Parade Strip Off, T-Dance for the Ladies, a Hot Ass Contest, and Ladies of Lipstixx Drag Review, to name a few.
This year's events will include the Phoenix Block Party that runs each night over the weekend, a nightly party at the Bourbon Pub & Parade, Hungfest musical showcase, Bearracuda's takeover, Party with the Pornstars, and more. The Sunday afternoon parade is the traditional Southern Decadence Grand Marshal Parade and will take place on September 1 at 2 p.m.
First-Timer's Guide
Southern Decadence isn't for the faint of heart. It's a bawdy, wild time that goes on day and night for several days in a row. So if it's your first time attending, there are a few things you can do to be prepared. Here are some things to know, as well as do and not do, if you're new to Decadence.
Suggestions from the Southern Decadence:
There are NO/AIDS Task force information tables located on the St. Ann Street sidewalk near the Bourbon Pub & Parade, where you'll find community info, free condoms, and details on Decadence events.
Plan on walking—a lot. Be sure to walk where it's well-lit and there are plenty of people. Note parking signs if you park on the streets.
Use your street smarts and just take what cash and cards/ID you need. Put them in a spot where they can't be easily gotten to.
Pace yourself. Since bars are open 24 hours, it's easy to over serve yourself.
Respect the French Quarter—it's a historic neighborhood.
Here are a few tips and insights from Perez:
Many businesses that fly rainbow flags are only interested in your rainbow dollars. Many are not gay-owned and do not support the local queer community throughout the year.
There are a lot of great gay bars off of Bourbon Street.
Tip your bartenders, servers, and street performers.
Some bars take cash only. Some bars take credit cards only.
The real party is in the streets. Bars are super crowded.
Use a bathroom. You will be arrested if you urinate in public.
