Fayetteville, AR
The northwest corner of Arkansas where Fayetteville sits emphasizes the moniker "The Natural State." Being from a flat place, these hills and valleys surrounding Fayetteville looked fascinating; rugged and mysterious woods were bejeweled with tiny villages occasionally lighting up the darkness. However, there's more to Fayetteville than hiking and biking. Live music thrives there to the degree that the city was selected to host Sound Diplomacy's international Music Cities Convention. There is a direct, inexpensive flight from MSY to Bentonville's airport at least twice weekly, but I opted to drive in, wanting to see how the flat delta lands of the Mississippi River begin to grow and sharpen into the Ozark Mountains.
In The Heart of Downtown Fayetteville
The lights of Fayetteville emerged over one final hill, and I pulled up to The Graduate Hotel. The warm, friendly staffers and comforting interior made me want to enjoy a wind-down beer from a local brewery at the lobby bar/breakfast counter with the other guests. The quirky lobby and lounge featured collegiate signage, but there was also a hodgepodge of Americana things. The bar was festooned with colorful string lights. The couches and chairs that lined the walls were upholstered wildly with vintage wilderness and animal prints. Think about your country grandma's favorite couch that Andy Warhol got his hands on. The walls of the elevator bank were covered in a patchwork of American flags. Even the room keys looked like student IDs of accomplished Americans. I can't not mention the reception desk that had dioramas of taxidermized creatures within it.
The room was no exception to this hodge podge of American glory. Photos and art featuring retro characters like Buck Rogers and interesting-looking everyday people hung on the walls. The carpet was a charming and garish camouflage print. The nightstand deserves a mention as the names of local attractions were scrawled on it, and the notepad resembled a scantron sheet (I loved that). I really wanted to open up and read the framed folded notes that look like the ones students write to each other, if they still do that.
The Graduate was in perfect walking placement to nearly everything in downtown Fayetteville and the Music Cities Convention that I was attending; all of my interests were within less than two miles in any direction. It wasn't hard to find the way back to The Graduate on these walks, either. The Graduate is one of the tallest buildings in the area, and the entire length is covered in red plaid, which stands out against the hilly green backdrop.
On a cool, crisp morning, I walked to Wilson Park just to see one particular corner of it. The Wilson Park Castle could be straight out of a fairytale. Artist Frank Williams was tapped to create whimsical concrete features around a natural spring that flows around the entire park in a deep crevice. Renovations and features made by other artists including benches that look like flowers have been added since the original 1970s structure. It's a gorgeous feature to play on and take pictures with.
I then strolled through the pretty neighborhoods and into the University of Arkansas area, marveling at the massive sorority homes. There, I found Evergreen Cemetery, one of the oldest burial grounds in Fayetteville. You can learn a lot about a city by the way they honor the oldest citizens; burials here began in the 1840s. The serene grounds hold the remains of several prominent city and state leaders including Archibald Yell, Arkansas' second governor and first congressman. Tours of the cemetery are available for those wanting deeper knowledge of this place.
It was time to head back to the city's center, which was beginning to buzz with activity. I popped into Experience Fayetteville Visitors Center at the picturesque Historic Square to learn more about the area. Then, it was a short walk to Hugo's, a favorite Fayetteville spot. The eatery resides in a basement down a flight of stairs by the sidewalk. The red neon sign shows you the way. Hugo's was packed on Monday for lunch, so you know it must be good. I selected the Bleu Moon Burger, and it was honestly one of the best burgers I've ever had, if not the best. The melted bleu cheese and moist patty were not too juicy as to ruin the bun, and the burger was not too tall that you had to smash it down to bite into it, which ruins the experience for me. Over the next several days, people would ask if I've eaten here yet because I should if I didn't. Yes, it's that good.
Block Street Records was right next door to Hugo's, and the shop had a great selection of all kinds of music. New and used vinyl albums had absolute treasures peeking out occasionally like Macho Man Randy Savage's album Be A Man. Upon recommendation, I traveled to the Dickson Street Bookshop a few blocks away. The shop is deceptively large, it seems like the length of a city block, and the store sells maps to guide you through it all. The veritable book tunnels take you on a journey, occasionally crossing paths with people who are nearly silent reading in a corner. Humorous signs and a couple of mannequins between the racks keep you on the right path.
As dusk settled in, I walked over to the University of Arkansas, which was hosting a Music Monday concert free and open to the public. The enormous and impressive campus made my heart pound. The manicured landscaping, gorgeous buildings, and engraved names of all graduates in the pathways aside, the campus was built on a hilltop. I arrived at the Faulkner Performing Arts Center, weary in the legs, just as Cellist Dr. Jennifer Carpenter and Pianist Dr. Tomoko Kashiwagi performed lovely classical and contemporary pieces for the students and community members, explaining the significance of each song before playing it.
The Song Swap that I attended after the concert at Kingfish was a different scene; the dive bar had an impressive double-rounded bar top, and the vintage beer signs along the walls provided soft lighting. The similarity between these two live music events was that each song came with a story or explanation before being performed. This was also an official event for the inaugural Arkansas Music Week. Sam Fagan, Charlie Jones, and Pete Masri, each wielding an acoustic guitar took turns playing singing tunes while couples and friend groups enjoyed the temperate night.
Celebrating Music Communities
A new, sunny day drew vendors and shoppers to the Fayetteville Farmers Market at the Downtown Square. The semi-weekly tradition has been going on since 1973, and the vendors had rows of fragrant flowers, produce, and homemade goodies. Musicians played on the corners, adding a soundtrack to the market. It seemed like the butterflies and bees were having their own little market. The biodiversity gardens surrounding the square's building provided a bounty of nectar for them.
I finally drove out of the downtown area to see Fayetteville's Funky Flea Market, which was quite the rabbit hole of wonders. Even the signage said it was cavernous. Stalls of vintage items, records, general weird stuff, and things I can't even describe went on endlessly. One could easily spend a few hours here taking it all in. Even though there's a lot of funky stuff for sale (I got some studded sunglasses), the shop cats give pets for free.
The Music Cities Convention officially kicked off with the Music Cities Awards Ceremony held at the incredible public library event space. The fifth annual event brought together music and musician advocates from the world over to recognize the top projects and programs using music to better their communities. Of the 11 awards, The city of Leipzig took home the top honor of Best Global Music City, Japan's Jazzy Business Consulting won for Best Use of Music in Real Estate or City Planning, and Best Organization Supporting Music in Their City went to Red Dirt Relief Fund of Tulsa, OK. Cliff + Susan provided live keyboard and guitar-driven music for the event. Susan's fancy kick to the keys is something I'll never forget. There was much more musical discussion to come in the next few days.
The Music Cities Convention held at Fayetteville Town Center kicked off with the panel discussion entitled "USA Music Cities Nation - 10 Years of Advocating for Music." From New Orleans, Reid Wick, Director of Regional Advocacy & Member Engagement for the Recording Academy and from Monroe, Kelsea McCrary, Chief Economic & Cultural Development Officer for the City of Monroe explained how Louisiana's musical heritage is being upheld and showcased today locally and globally.
Throughout the riveting day, presenters from many countries and professions discussed topics including "Artificial Intelligence and Innovation - Ethical Practices for Music Cities (Ken Lythgoe, Head of Business and Corporate Development, DAACI)," "The Therapeutic Power of Music Education (Stacey Ryan, President, School of Rock)," and "Music in Times of Crisis - Recovery Through Advocacy (Dodie Stephens, Explore Asheville, VP Marketing, Katie Cornell, Executive Director, ArtsAVL)." NPR KUAF 91.3 sponsored the special lunch hour with a performance by Big Piph. The rapper has been doing so much cultural ambassador work around the world that this was his first performance in two years.
The panels were concluded with a special musical event presented by the Music Education Initiative in the Pryor Center for Arkansas Oral & Visual History as a band performed in BC's Blues Shack. I didn't realize at first that this life-size juke joint exhibit was named for President Bill Clinton. In fact, the Clinton Presidential Center donated the piece designed by Kaki Hockersmith to the Music Education Initiative; who can forget when President Clinton played a saxophone on the Arsenio Hall Show in the '90s? The Music Education Initiative gifted the convention delegates with the Naturally Arkansas album produced by the organization's Executive Director/Co-Founder Orson Weems and Board Chair Greg "GT" Thompson.
The Ozark Charcuterie & Wine Bar was so close to the Pryor Center, but I couldn't figure out exactly where. Well, hot pink light was shining a short walk down the alley. Ozark Charcuterie & Wine Bar emerged from the darkness, a pretty pink palace seated half way underground. As soon as my luxurious glass of red wine and bowl of warm olives arrived where I saw in a plush chair, the little bar filled up with young women enjoying the feminine atmosphere and picture-worthy decor.
Not to be outdone, Maxine's Tap Room is the place to be for late night conversations. The small booths and long bartop were made for getting to know old friends and new friends better, and it's been this way since 1950. The bar's namesake Maxine Miller was quite the character, and she opened this joint back in 1950; not a small feat for a single woman at that time. If you pick up the payphone at the back of the bar, Maxine will pick up and tell you to get the hell out.
The Freaky Friday is surely a newer addition to the cocktail menu; the drink had a ghoulish blue green foam and deep purple body crafted from butterfly pea gin, cuppalletti, lemon juice, and ginger beer. The popcorn selections looked nice, and I ordered the Sweet & Smokey variety coated with Rub It Snout barbecue seasoning. It was literally the largest bowl of popcorn I've been handed, and I required assistance from other bargoers to finish it.
A Majestic Farewell
The last day of panels and presentations at the Music Cities Convention gave the attendees so much good information and food for thought. From how visual arts can create an immersive musical experience to being mindful of inclusivity and accessibility at venues and festivals, my notepad was quickly running out of space. The topics included "Music Festivals, Tradition and Sustainable Development in Central Asia (Chingiz Batyrbekov, Co-Founder, Kolfest)," "The Power of Free Outdoor Concerts in Creating Vibrant Music Cities (Sharon Yazowski, President & CEO, Levitt Foundation)," and "Cali After Dark - Nightlife and Inclusivity Practices (Alejandra Gómez Quintero, Director, BICHE Musical)."
To have one last blast all together, the delegates were invited to a closing party at the oldest, still-operating music venue in the entire state. George's Majestic Lounge opened just two years short of a century ago by George Pappa as a general store. The train line that still runs just feet away from the patio made this a perfect location. The building changed hands many times over the years, but it has always hosted revelrous events. The award-winning venue accomplished many things before other establishments in the area: integration, color TV, and pizza delivery. Nowadays, locals and visitors come here for drinks, good times, and live music.
The back room filled up with convention-goers exchanging contact information in order to grow and strengthen these musical bonds being created throughout the globe. Over local beer and hot slices of pizza, we watched performances by Dylan Earl and Erin Enderlin thanks to the sponsorship of Historic Dyess, the Boyhood Home of Johnny Cash. Explore Pine Bluff and the Music Education Initiative sponsored a secondary showcase with local talent including Rev. Greg Spradlin, Paige Johnsey, and March to August.
The good times still weren't done after all that! An impromptu party was put together at Pinpoint Fayetteville by some of the convention delegates. How did this gem escape me before? An underground pinball bar with tiki drinks is exactly my cup of tea. A couple of frozen strawberry daiquiris complete with an umbrella and 20-or-so buzzing pinball machines made me feel alive; I was mostly drawn to the Stranger Things and The Addams Family movie machines, but I'm pretty sure I got my hands on all of them. We had fun for hours here until we had to leave because most of us only had a few hours before our flights or drives back home.
Back through the beautiful hills and valleys of forested Northwest Arkansas until the land slowly flattened into Mississippi River Delta and the state lines changed. The northwestern corner of Arkansas is booming in population and recreational opportunities. The Natural State offers hiking, biking, water sports galore, and then the cities come alive with culture at night.
