As a native southern Louisianian, I have been visiting Gulf beaches for my entire life. From day trips to Mississippi cities to family weekends in Florida, I am well-acquainted with the blue waters and sugar sands of these cities. When Jacksonville, Florida came knocking, I realized I have never been to an Atlantic Ocean coastal city before. I've seen the waters from planes and from northeastern city vistas, but Jacksonville will be the first time I set foot into it. Adding to the excitement of getting to know a new place, I was landing during a blues festival that just a four minute walk from my hotel. From New Orleans, Jacksonville is a quick flight on Breeze Airways away, clocking in at just over an hour catching a good tailwind.
I went straight away to the Springing the Blues Festival which had a little bit of music left by the time I arrived driving in from the airport. D.K. Harrel drew a huge crowd to the Seawalk Pavilion Stage, and I listened as I wandered through the vendors. But another sound started whispering in my ear. I could swear it was Howlin' Wolf singing on some old recording, but I soon realized that it was JP Sears and his Gypsy Blue Revue at the Mo' Blues Stage. His raspy voice was only slightly softened by the addition of Anne Haris's sweet fiddle. I regret not seeing more of this set, but at least I got a taste.
It was a short walk to Hoptinger Bier Garden and Sausage House, and I was really in the mood for great beer. Hoptinger had a cool atmosphere; locals and fest-goers alike sat along the huge wraparound bar enjoying the night air. With so many beers on tap to choose from, I had to go with a flight of four options: locally-made Bold City Killer Whale to Cigar City Jai Ali, Original Sin Black Widow, and Left Hand Lemon Drop Shandy. These four very different brews provided a range of palate cleaners between big bites of the South Philly Dog. The hot, belly-filling sausage extended a few inches beyond the bun; it came covered in melted provolone studded with peppers and mushrooms was excellent, and the fries were seasoned just right. A younger crowd started filtering in, gearing up to do some karaoke. Normally, I shy away from this kind of event preferring to hear the pros do it right. I was pleasantly surprised, however. Most of the young singers were talented. I didn't roll my eyes even once.
I needed that walk back to my hotel to digest that meal, even though it wasn't very far at all. The Element Jacksonville Beach is perhaps four minutes away on foot from Springing the Blues Festival. The salty breeze whooshed through the palm trees as the fun-seekers packed into their favorite beach bars. The Element Jacksonville Beach is contemporary and clean. My room was incredibly spacious and even included a full kitchen with the cookware and a dishwasher. If I was in town for longer, these amenities would have been highly appreciated, but there was just too much good food to try elsewhere.
Hip Neighborhoods
On this sunny, temperate day, I headed away from the beach inland to visit the older neighborhoods of Riverside, Avondale, and Five Points. Many of the breakfast joints were buzzing with diners already. The Cool Moose Cafe seemed like the best fit for someone wanting to sit for a while instead of rush. The homey cafe serving a big menu of breakfast and lunch dishes was indeed a great place for a meal and to grab some local magazines to see what's going on around JAX. The coffee pots are self-serve on the bookcase that also houses old cigar boxes and cookbooks. The great thing about this is that you can try multiple blends and at your own pace. The Belgian Waffle I ordered arrived with fresh, plump berries, hot syrup, and a large dollop of whipped cream. The side of crunchy bacon added just enough savory flavor to counter the rich sweetness of the meal.
I took a long walk to The Gray House, taking in the sights of Riverside. There are pockets of revived main street boutiques, bars with arcade machines, tattoo shops, and more, and they give way to lovely large homes shaded by old trees. The Gray House's historical marker told the tale of how "an interracial group of Southern musicians held a jam session" here on March 23, 1969. They would go on to become The Allman Brothers Band.
Another walk back to the Riverside neighborhood, passing gorgeous homes and parks along the way, brought me to the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens which happened to be free to all visitors this particular day. The sprawling museum has several rooms of art spanning thousands of years. I always love studying ancient Egyptian artifacts and Medieval paintings. The movie posters from the local Norman Studios were larger than I expected. I really appreciated how some works in the Knowing the West Exhibition were labeled by Artist Once Known, replacing Artist Unknown as the maker was a named person in the lifetime. The paintings, sculptures, and artifacts weren't the only stunning things to gaze upon. The grounds were immaculate. The gardens and very old, large oak trees overlooked the glittering waters of the St. Johns River. A jazz band performed for the happy families exploring this outdoor paradise.
The Riverside Art Market was not hard to find. It sits nearly next door to the Cummer Museum, and the crowds of people walking away from the market with bags full of goodies led me right to it. The open-air market under the Fuller Warren Bridge was far larger than I thought it would be. Not only were vendors there selling fresh produce and gourmet prepared foods of all kinds, there was a roster of live entertainment, jewelry makers, vendors of clothing both new and pre-loved, and everything in between. Though it was bustling, it wasn't hard to see everything available.
My time in this area wasn't done just yet. I circled back to Wildcrafters Booze-Free & Kava Bar for a relaxing kava drink. The Next Level kava mocktail infused with lavender, thyme, spirulina, and more tropical flavors was an herbaceous oasis. The lovely setting of Wildcrafters was warm and cozy. The scent of incense and the cool music set a beautiful atmosphere.
I took Beach Boulevard back east to head to Springing the Blues. I couldn't help but take a quick trip to the Beaches Museum just across the street from The Element and on the way to Springing the Blues, and it was free admission today as well. I was able to learn so much about the prehistoric history of this area, its founding, and how the construction of Beach Boulevard changed the city into a true getaway destination.
Springing the Blues had two music stages, and the Mo' Blues Stage featured most of the acts from the larger stage after that set. I preferred this stage. I have always felt that Blues in particular is a music best enjoyed close up and in small quarters. This is a music of feel and emotion, the feelings the musicians strive to pass onto you or bring up in you arise more when you're physically close to each other.
The band I wanted to see the most, The Cold Stares, had just finished at the large Seawalk Pavilion, and they headed to the Mo' Blues Stage where I caught them. This trio out of Indiana makes a very deep, rich sound of electric blues. I know this is due in part to frontman Chris Tapp's Les Paul and other high-end gear. The beast would wail and moan under the expert hand of Tapp. It made me feel a surge of energy through their songs "Nothing But the Blues," "Heavy Shoes," and "Hard Times." I got lost in it.
I needed to sit down at one of the VIP seats at the Seawalk Pavilion to take a break from that emotional rollercoaster, though Chris O'Leary didn't help much for a come down. I was only able to see a few minutes of his set before bluesman Zac Harmon took the stage. His blues is electric, but with a slightly jazzy edge. The punchy bass and keys provide a more technical backdrop for Zac's emotive singing. He dedicated one song to men over 50; this piece was about how a little blue pill can make them feel young again.
I wanted to take a break from the sun and enjoy a big meal. Graffiti American Burger Bar sounded like the right place for that. The garage windows of the vibrant sports bar were wide open. Still, the scent of grilled meat hung in the air. The Black N' Blue Burger was piled high with tangy blue cheese crumbles, crispy bacon and refreshing lettuce. The I-10 IPA in a tall, frosty mug washed it down perfectly. While my sense of taste was tingling with delight, my eyes wandered to the walls between the windows which are, in fact, painted with street art ranging from old school lettering and more intricate renderings of beer, burgers, and ladies.
Meandering back towards Springing the Blues, The Wreck Tiki Lounge is a nautical bar with freshly-made frozen drinks and views of the dunes. I loved how my Pina Colada, as all the frozen drinks, was blended right before me and plopped with a dollop of whipped cream. Though the fest was close by, The Wreck had their own great classic rock tribute band entertaining the excited crowd.
Back at Springing the Blues, Victor Wainwright and The Train started to gear up at the Seawalk Pavilion. I didn't know this band before this performance, but I will not forget them now after this absolute powerhouse of a set. Victor himself is 44 years young, but he performs his brand of soulful blues with the agency of an older, wiser man.
Victor sat donning Roy Orbison-black shades at the keys, and he launched his high-octane group into "Bo Diddley." Guitarist Pat Harrington had that slide ready to go for it. This one song seemed to last forever (in the best way). Victor Wainwright and The Train are a bluesy jam band. However, unlike most jam bands, the energy and tempo were up throughout the build-ups and pockets of groove. There are even sections inspired by swing with hot trumpet and sax solos.
Victor called out to his parents and other family in the audience, telling them, "For all the love you gave, and all the work you done, I got to walk the walk." The big band then launched into a bouncy, fast, jazzy piece that Dr. John seemed to be orchestrating from the beyond. It felt special watching it, especially knowing the people he wrote it for were there.
The Train performed other tribute songs including "Shake a Tail Feather," "Such a Night," and "I Wanna Be Like You." The original song "Mine Shaft Boogie" is inspired by the amusement park ride, and it was just as crazy and raucous as being on that ride. "I haven't played that fast in 10 years," said Victor with a wide smile. This is one of those rare sets that I have a very hard time pulling myself away from. Alas, I had to leave at some point to rest for the morning's adventure.
An Early Morning Dip
Just as the sun was coming up, I joined Matt with Jax Surf & Paddle for a paddleboard lesson in Pottsburg Creek. Matt was an excellent and patient instructor, but getting the hang of standing up on the board was a little difficult for me at first. I fell in once, but with Matt's instruction and encouragement, I was able to get myself back on and eventually stand. We paddled along the serene water, spotting wildlife and stopping to take pictures. My legs were jelly at the end of the lesson, but I had so many more things to do today.
I stopped for breakfast at Ink Factory Brewing closer to Jacksonville Beach. I was a bit confused as to how a brewery served breakfast items, but the cool brewery maximizes their business by serving coffee and some pastries before beer hours. I got a Hot Matcha Latte and a matching Matcha Cookie to ease my tired legs.
Later that day, I checked out Jax Surf and Paddle's cool shop in the bustling Beaches Town Center, a contemporary retail and dining area at Neptune Beach. After taking a stroll around, I settled on North Beach Fish Camp for lunch. The curved porch wrapping the corner was quite attractive. I sat inside in order to have the entire 180 degree view of the sunny corner. I required some comfort fried food after the morning's workout, so Fried Okra and Fish and Chips were necessary. The pieces of cod were humongous! And when dipped in the tartar sauce, it was divine. I've never had tartar like this before: not super sour, but fresh and herbal.
Before going back to Jacksonville Beach for the fest, I stopped at Lemon Bar which was a hip, beachy outdoor bar with a bright yellow patio covering that cast a sunny glow. The popular watering hole sits along the pool and patio of a cool retro hotel, but the view of the dunes and unobstructed sky is what brings people here. The Jalapeno Margarita I imbibed was as exciting as the growing crowd.
As dusk began to soften the sunlight, The North Mississippi Allstars took to the Seawalk Pavilion at Springing the Blues. Brothers Luther and Cody Dickinson rattled the stage with their bluesy rock. Luther in particular discussed how they used to tour with a mattress in the back of a rented truck, and "it was the bumpiest ride" he ever experienced… until driving to Jazz Fest in New Orleans last year, of course. Their biggest fans walked right up to the edge of the stage where they hung out for the whole set. The biggest reaction from the crowd came from a rendition of "You Gotta Move" in which the trio was joined by a guest vocalist.
I also was intrigued to lean upon the stage when Cody came out from behind the drums to play the washboard which he rigged up to pedals to create an awesome wah-wah sound. His right foot was as involved as his hands in creating the solo which went on for several minutes, but I could have listened for a longer time. I took a video of it just to see how he was doing this musical magic. Luther took a turn on the drums to back him up. Both brothers are talented multi-instrumentalists.
I wanted a late night snack to wind down, and Sneakers Sports Grille was positioned between the fest gate and the hotel just for this reason. A hot bowl of chili and some fries came out so fast that I barely had time to see all of the numerous TVs playing sports around the room. It's a sportsfan's dream; several large projection screens take up the tall walls, and the booths have their own individual TVs.
Brunch Before Bones
I knew I was going to like Jax Beach Brunch Haus when I walked in and saw a blue guitar sitting next to a piano that seems regularly played. The merch shirts had the restaurant name in the style of the famous CBGB venue and pop art of Ringo Starr and Bob Dylan looking out upon the dining room. The menu was huge. From cocktails and boozy coffee to breakfast and brunch favorites; I had to start by narrowing the options to the most unique dishes. Though I'm not vegan, I chose the Veggie Scramble (with a side of real bacon) and some eye-opening coffee. I needed as much energy as possible for my last day's adventure.
I drove north up Jimmy Buffet Memorial Highway to the St. Johns River Ferry to meet up with the highway again; the buildings and homes gave way to the untamed beach vistas of Big Talbot Island State Park. I found my way to Boneyard Beach where just a few other nature lovers were congregating. The foreboding name made sense as I traversed the beach, walking around fallen trees that were bleaching in the sun. Their chaotic branches and roots were silent, and the surf gently lapped the sand. Black Rock Beach was a long walk down the beach, but I came prepared for it. I carefully climbed to the highest flat surface of the black rocks to peer across the side of the tall mound. The bright beach had more dark rocks than people. The bluffs along the beach created a wall where one can sit in the shade and ponder life, but soon more trees will give way as erosion eats away at the land.
I definitely deserved a great meal after all of that exploration. I hopped back in the car and went to the Sandollar Restaurant near to where the ferry docks. The wide covered porch allowed a breeze to come through. The Sneaky Tiki was the fruity tiki drink I've been looking for with coconut rum, pineapple juice, and orange juice. Admittedly, it's an odd pairing. But I'm a soup lover. I wanted to give the Seafood Gumbo a try. It was quite thick, especially with the inclusion of tomatoes. It was a quick lunch, and then off to see more natural wonders.
I had already seen some impressive trees in Jacksonville, but I was told that Treaty Oak at Jessie Ball duPont Park was not to be missed. I thought surely I've seen larger trees in my lifetime, but now I'm not sure. This massive old oak tree has limbs that are so large that an off-ground boardwalk allows people to meander through them effortlessly. I tried to get a photo of myself with the trunk just for reference, but justice cannot be done to show the 25-foot circumference trunk.
Like Treaty Oak, I didn't know what was in store for me before I arrived at Kickbacks Gastropub. It seems like a basic sports from the outside. The interior, however, is an entire world. Steve Flores explained to me that Kickbacks was in fact a basic sports bar when it opened 20 years ago, but the crowd quickly outgrew the space. Steve was able to buy the property next door, a very old home, and cobbled together a fanciful three-story space called Goozlepipe & Guttyworks. The two distinct spaces are conjoined, but the Goozlepipe side is a literal work of art.
The two stories above ground are lined with $11,000 worth of pennies and priceless custom art consisting of small glass boxes containing meaningful dioramas. The story doesn't end here. Descending into the basement is strange because there aren't many underground rooms in this state. The basement is a treasure trove of fun and mystery. There's a loungey bar where Belgian beers shine, and the room is decorated in the style of an old Belgian monastery including actual artifacts. Apparently, the local vampires find solace here.
Turn the corner to enter one of the caged areas containing quite possibly the largest collection of vintage beer in the world. Serious beer lovers are welcome to lock up their beer here or even enjoy their drinks in the sexy round beer locker room. Steve is a collector of oddities and machinery, and this is his museum. The gargantuan beer tap is a reworked coffee urn from the Civil War. Goozlepipe & Guttyworks is absolutely a one-of-a-kind artwork, and you can drink inside of it.
Not far from this bar was my very last stop in the quaint Murray Hill neighborhood before heading back home, but there was a trick to it. One must enter through Blackhat Vapor to get to the front door of Buchner's Bierhalle. Owner Jason Grimes showed me around the beautiful art deco-inspired bar and biergarten, explaining how he brought his Belgian heritage into every corner of this place. His family photos hang on the walls that are plastered with vintage-print wallpaper. Buchner's offers German beer, wine, and fare that is difficult or impossible to find in the area and beyond.
The largest contiguous US city offers a range of activities and cultural happenings. From sun-soaked beach days to leisurely afternoons in humming small business districts to photo-worthy bar crawls. The flip-side of Florida, Jacksonville is a beautiful beach destination with entertainment and nature for all.
