Art, Music, Food, Brew: Pensacola Beyond The Beach

Like many of my peers in New Orleans, I have been to Pensacola a few times in the summer to spend the day on the beach and get a big meal at McGuire's Irish Pub at night. While that was great, it was high time for me to get to know Pensacola beyond the beach. And I found so much culture that I couldn't even experience it all in one trip. After the summer rush, I ventured down to Pensacola in early November right as the city was in the throes of the multi-day event called Foo Foo Fest.

Foo Foo Fest goes for 12 days and highlights every aspect of Pensacola's artistic culture. Paintings, plays, concerts, sculptures, and more are on tap for locals and visitors alike during a time of year that isn't boiling hot and not yet freezing cold. The weather was perfect and the people were happy as I arrived in town to experience Pensacola in an entirely new way.

My first stop was The Fish House for some outdoor dining to enjoy the beautiful weather and unwind from the drive. I sat right on the patio that overlooks the marina and dined on a perfectly grilled salmon steak over whipped potatoes. The calm water glistened as the sound of a symphony came from the festivities nearby.

Feeling full and excited to do some sight-seeing, I walked over to the Great Gulfcoast Arts Festival in Seville Square which was celebrating its 50^th year of bringing over 200 unique and talented artists from all over the country to display their work. I was surprised at the wide variety of art and mediums. Right next to wooden sculptures, there were mechanical creations. Sharing a wall with circus banner-inspired pieces were black-and-white nature photos. The Great Gulfcoast Arts Festival is a juried event that ensures that each booth has a truly unrepeated style so that each artist can shine.

Buzzed On The Beach

After the unexpected air show, I found my room at the SpringHill Suites which is right on the beach. I loved that this luxurious hotel was smaller than the other towers in the area. It felt more like a boutique hotel with just 117 rooms. The lovely room had everything one can need for a relaxing stay: separate living area with a microwave and mini-fridge, desk area with an office chair, a glass-enclosed shower, a comfy bed with romantic underlighting, and, of course, a breathtaking view beyond the pool area to the white sand and blue waters of the Gulf from the patio. Even when I wasn't on the patio, I found myself staring through the wall-length, floor-to-ceiling windows to see the beach. It's beautiful to see how it changes over the course of the day and night as we revolve around the sun.

I was excited for a big dinner tonight, but my eyes may have been bigger than my stomach. Still, I couldn't resist ordering several appetizing items from The Grand Marlin Restaurant and Oyster Bar's menu. The Grand Marlin is clearly a regular spot for Pensacola and Gulf Breeze residents who love the upscale, yet family-friendly restaurant that overlooks the bay. And they know that the menu will likely be different every time they come. The menu is printed daily because the seafood is that freshly caught.

After ordering a refreshing, but smokey Grand Marlin cocktail, I started my meal with some Lobster Fingers which were fried to perfection. I needed to have the Blue Angel Chips, but the spiral-cut and fried potatoes topped with blue cheese and bacon were piled so high on the plate that I couldn't get half-way through. I was enticed by the mention of key lime in one of the entrees, and I needed to know what this dish tasted like. The Key Lime Lobster Tails were exquisitely grilled and slathered in melted butter with key lime juice. It was a fantastic take that added a yummy twist to a rich meal.

That filling meal was quickly walked off when I went to downtown Pensacola to be a part of an immersive play that kept me on my toes. Unrequited is a retelling of William Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet that leads the audience through the stately Clark Family Cultural Center (formerly the Old Escambia County Court of Record Building) to witness the tragic tale of the star-crossed lovers. The play was set in the more modern era of the 1940s, and the audience was obliged to follow the cast from room to room to see how the story unfolded. We were even given masks to wear when we were in the Capulet's ballroom, and we sat in Juliet's bedroom when she and Romeo professed their love for one another. In the catacombs, we were given a little vile of an unknown liquid to drink. Could it be the same poison that Romeo drank to join his love in the afterlife? The Pensacola Little Theater did an incredible job making this event memorable. No seated play will feel quite as intense as this one.

Exploring The Fort

The next day was a perfect, sunny day to explore Fort Pickens which was a just a few minutes' scenic drive down Pensacola Beach. Fort Pickens and the surrounding area are federally protected which means there are 18 miles of pristine beach. Visitors are welcome to camp in designated areas which is great for those wanting a more peaceful trip than the main hub of Pensacola Beach can offer. There are several trails to hike or you can head out to the beach to soak in the sun and feel like the only people still left on the planet.

The fort area beyond the campgrounds is a massive construction that you can explore on foot and with the assistance of the National Park Service App that gives you historical information about every spot you're standing on. I started the journey in the Visitor's Center that had detailed information about the area's history, wildlife, and current issues with erosion and preservation. I got so much information about the Fort was built over centuries, being retrofitted to deal with new threats as time passed. But walking in and around the fort really made the history come to life. It was amazing to see what the people who erected these buildings accomplished. I very much appreciated the NPS App that explained the significance of each area and why it was made. Though the sun was shining outside, going into some of these tunnels made it feel like midnight.

After such a vigorous excursion through the fort, a big lunch was warranted. I stopped at Casino Beach Bar+ Grille which had seating right at the edge of the beautiful beach. I loved watching the surfers catch some waves by the pier from the comfort of my table while enjoying the Grilled Fish Tacos with Sidewinder Fries and Key West Lime Pie for dessert.

I wanted to enjoy more of the perfect weather and took a walk down the Pensacola Beach Boardwalk. The water of the bay was crystal clear as I walked down a pier to look back at the city. I had to make a stop at the famous Bamboo Willie's Beachside Bar for a frozen daiquiri and to learn about their big celebration coming up in 2023. But I finally made my way back to the SpringHill Suites for a short break.

My evening activities began with a drink and a snack at The Kennedy in downtown Pensacola. The swanky bar was beautiful, but the menu itself was something I had never seen before. It looked like an old movie poster. Each of the drinks featured on it were movie titles, and the drinks were inspired by their namesake films. While I was tempted to order the King Creole, I got the Only Angels Have Wings, vodka, wildflower-infused blanc vermouth, honey, and rose water spritz. In addition to the floral libation, I was tempted to get a bowl of steaming hot Coconut Miso Ramen with beech mushrooms and bean sprouts. It was just a perfect meal for a night on the town!

I could see from The Kennedy that people were starting to line up to enter The Vinyl Music Hall. It was here that two bands would put on a show funded by a grant given to Jazz Pensacola from the Foo Foo Fest that showcased how much this city loves and appreciates jazz music. Jazz Pensacola has been gifting the city and surrounding areas with free concerts, donations of materials to the library system, and bringing in big names in jazz to entertain and to educate.

The first act was AC3, a stage-filling, energetic band that introduced their songs using soundbites from civil justice demonstrations. The 8-member band moved seamlessly from wild modern jazz tunes to slick Chicago-style songs with wild saxophone, really great bass, and a constantly-evolving drum rhythm. The rhythm flowed unceasingly, taking twists and turns, moving up and down. It felt like floating down a river; you never knew what was coming around the bend. Different instruments coming to the forefront than shrinking back while another rose.

As AC3 exited the stage, the crowd crept closer and closer to the front. Many people clearly knew what was coming and wanted to be right up front. Karl Denson took to the stage with his band of six young, zestful guys to enthusiastic applause and cheers. Karl appeared humbled by the reaction before he even played one note. His Tiny Universe band launched into the set which was intoxicating. The cool 70s jazz vibe had a definite funk aspect to it, especially with the way the guitar and organ played. Karl's sax acted like the vocals, emotive and engaging. Karl asked the surging audience, "Who has a broken heart that required therapy? This goes out to all of you!" He did not shy away from speaking directly to his fans in between songs. He also encouraged everyone in the room to go out and vote because "democracy is messy." Karl Denson's Tiny Universe got everyone up and grooving. I know that there were several audience members who literally did not stop dancing the entire set.

The Trail Through The Town

The next day, breakfast happened at Bodacious back in downtown. It was such a lovely spot for breakfast because it is also a store specializing in upscale kitchenware and it occasionally hosts cooking classes. I had to have the Olive and Rosemary Quiche that came with extra olive oil that I drizzled over the big portion of warm quiche. It was definitely the best and most unique quiche I ever had! And I won't have quiche any other way from now on. Needless to say, I also had a big cup of coffee too. The lively spot was the perfect place to get my blood pumping for the big day ahead.

I walked over to the conspicuous red line that ran down several streets in this area. The red line indicates the America's First Settlement Trail highlighting hundreds of years of history that wends through downtown Pensacola and the Historic District to explain the history of the city in an engaging, educational, and innovative way. You can start at any point on the trail, and you'll find informative placards along the way that explain buildings you are near or what was once there starting from the mid-1700s. There are also many QR codes to scan that take you to the Visit Pensacola website with more information about that spot.

I really enjoyed one area on the trail called the Colonial Archaeological Trail that included markings on the ground and ruins from a former building that thoroughly explained how the first building erected on this site was added onto several times as different generations of people came into power. From the buildings of downtown to the picturesque historic village and into the neighborhoods where citizens proudly show off their storied homes, this trail is like a living, breathing museum that gives you so much fascinating history of a incredible city, and introduces you to Pensacola's shops, restaurants, and residents now. The America's First Settlement Trail is something that every major city should employ.

I had to veer off of the trail for a minute to see the Bubble Alley installation created for Foo Foo Fest that would stay up for the next several weeks for everyone to enjoy. Hundreds of rainbow-colored balloons silently hovered over the street whimsically. It's a perfect spot to get pictures of little ones and even grown-ups. Some of the Bubble Alley balloons were brought to area businesses (like the one I went to this night) so that they can delight their customers.

I will admit that I was initially distracted by the prison bars still standing in the Pensacola Museum of Art which was formerly the Pensacola City Jail from 1908 until the 1940s. But as soon as I wandered into the strange photo exhibit on the first floor, I was captivated. Séance featured photos taken by Shannon Taggart over the past 20 years as she documented spiritualist practices around the world. Shannon's mind-bending photos appear to show mediums evoking plasma out of their bodies as well as the variety of homemade tents they use to achieve this state.

Just upstairs lived the main exhibit Vandals to Vanguards. The eye-catching collection of pop art seemed to jump off of the walls with bright colors, weird scenes, and lots of diamond dust. Featured artists include the world-famous Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Banksy, and the more recent artist Mr. Brainwash. Not only did the exhibit explain the rebellious beginnings of the pop art scene and how it disrupted and reinterpreted art culture for the next decades, but the museum included pieces that showed how early pop art inspired future generations who took iconic pieces and reimagined them to make an entirely different statement. Those artistic gestures have spawned heated conversations and even legal proceedings about what artists can and cannot do when using another's art as a part of their own.

Vandals to Vanguards will be on display until January 8^th. Currently, the Pensacola Museum of Art is showcasing Steam: an exhibition centered around the concept of ecosystems as a metaphor for critical thinking. Steam will be on display until April 9^th. The 69^th Annual Youth Art Focus will be on display from January 21^st to February 26^th.

Dinner, Drinks, And A Show

Between daytime and nighttime entertainment, I went to Perfect Plain Brewing Co. which was recently purchased by New Orleans-based brewery Urban South. In fact, it was apparent that several Louisiana businesses had a foot-hold in Pensacola. Juan's Flying Burrito's only non-New Orleans location is here, and the Mandeville-born breakfast joint Another Broken Egg has one of their many Florida locations here too. I indulged in four of the most interesting-looking beers here as I watched the sun go down and people come out to attend a show or get a lovely dinner.

Since the weather was so good, an open-air dinner at The Garden at Palafox + Main was needed. The space is lined with retro Airstream trailers each with a different pop-up restaurant. I couldn't choose just one, so I got the Nashville Hot chicken tenders from Champ's Nashville Hot Chicken and Calimex fried avocado wedges from Calavera Tacos. All of those flavors were perfectly paired with a smokey Grapefruit Margarita from the in-house bar Perennial.

My night was capped with a concert at the gorgeous Saenger Theater, but this was no normal show. Nashville-based country music songwriters Jon Nite, Rivers Rutherford, and Brett James were joined by the Pensacola Symphony Orchestra for a night of music, conversation, and fun. Music City Hit Makers: The Songs, Their Stories, & A Symphony was an event in which these hit songwriters told the stories behind their big songs including "Break Up in The End," "When I Get Where I'm Going," "Then Came You," and "Real Good Man" and then performed them with the backing of the full orchestra. The renditions were beautiful, and the stories were half heartwarming and half hilarious.

This great show seemed to be sold out, and it was good to know that the proceeds for the Foo Foo Fest event went to the Frank Brown International Foundation for Music and the Larry Butler Memorial Music Scholarship at the University of West Florida. It's obvious that Pensacola's citizens and regular visitors love investing in musical endeavors.

My final breakfast in Pensacola was had at Native Café just across the street from the SpringHill Suites. Pensacola Beach locals and tourists alike love this quirky neighborhood spot with colorful art and a friendly vibe. The omelette was so well seasoned and garnished, and the crunchy, steaming potatoes were just right. It's easy to see why people make it a habit to come here every time they visit the city.

Up In The Air

My final event in this lovely city was to drive west to the Naval Air Station Pensacola. The Blue Angels were about to have a big air show that hundreds would come out to see later in the day. Before the big event, I went to the National Naval Aviation Museum on the base which totally surpassed any expectations I had. The gargantuan museum held planes, jets, helicopters, and even space crafts from the very early days of flight to now. It was easy to see why this institution, the third largest aviation museum in the world highlighting 111 years of naval aviation, is the largest attraction between New Orleans and Orlando.

Not only were the huge aircrafts mind blowing, the museum has so many interactive and immersive features. Entering into the museum, you are standing on the deck of an aircraft carrier, and you can watch a virtual plane come in for a landing. You walk through a century of history and see how the crafts transformed with new technology and needs for defense. One of the coolest parts of the museum was a darkened room in which sat two drowned planes that still look like they're sitting on the sea floor. Sit down in an old plane seat and you'll watch a short film about how WWII pilots were trained to take off and land on aircraft carriers in Lake Michigan. Hundreds of planes still sit on the lake's bottom. Some have been brought to the surface to have new life as museum artifacts.

At this time, the giant screen theater was playing the movie Devotion, the true story of how the first black aviator to complete the Navy's basic training program Jesse Brown was shot down in China. He survived the landing, but he was trapped in his aircraft in a remote area. Brown's wingman Thomas Hudner intentionally crash landed his own plane in an attempt to free Brown from the plane that was on fire. Sadly, Jesse Brown was unable to be freed from the craft even though Hudner and rescue pilot Charles Ward tried for nearly an hour. The National Naval Aviation Museum has a profound memorial to Jesse Brown and Thomas Hudner on display to honoring the brave men and their devotion to each other and their country.

Just down the street from the Naval Aviation Museum, I went to climb to the top of the Pensacola Lighthouse to get a final look at the city and wander the Maritime Museum. I did underestimate the climb; 177 steps is not easy even for the most healthy person. Eventually, I made it up to the top where the mammoth turning lamp lived. I made my way onto the walkway just outside of the lamp's enclosure to see a breathtaking view of everything for miles and miles from over 150 feet up in the air. After an also exhausting walk back down, I went into the Maritime Museum which is full of information about the people who manned the lighthouse since it was built in 1859. Even several women kept the light to help guide vessels to safety.

It was wonderful getting to know Pensacola beyond the beach; there's so much to explore, enjoy, and immerse yourself in. The city's citizens clearly take immense pride in their art, their music, their cuisine, and everything in between. If you are ready to see Pensacola in a whole new light, check out the upcoming festivities on VisitPensacola.com. You might be surprised to see how much fun they've got going on year-round and for every member of the family.