Travelin' to Mississippi
Hattiesburg, Mississippi is a young city in age and in feel. It's rather unlike its neighbors in the state and in the South as it was founded after the Civil War and was a major hub during the Civil Rights movement. The resident colleges University of Southern Mississippi and William Carey University keep the city young at heart.
As you make your way closer to Hattiesburg, a bit less than two hours from New Orleans, you'll notice the growing number of murals that splash the city with color and culture. New, exciting eateries sit right next to the stalwart restaurants, and all of them stay busy with regulars. Bars and venues bring in crowds who are there to take in a concert, comedy show, or play pub games. It's easy to pack in a lot of fun in a short time.
In The Pines
I stayed at the cutest, coolest tiny house camp located alongside the Longleaf Trace. Longleaf Piney Resort is the home of eight tiny homes each with a totally different look. My weekend house called Hoedown was not that tiny at all. The spacious place had a big kitchen, full bathroom, and full bed fashioned as a couch on the ground floor and a cozy bed in the loft. As if that wasn't enough space, each house has a little yard with chairs and a fire pit for enjoying your time in nature. A larger recreational area in the center of the homes features yard games and bikes for rent that can be used on the Longleaf Trace at the entrance of the resort.
As night dawned, we headed out to Big Trouble. The unassuming exterior leads to a culinary and cocktail adventure that exceeds your expectations. The fun and funky interior features several little dining areas with totally different decor including the open kitchen bar seating. The separate bar area was a beauty with rich, dark walls and furnishings and heavy music playing. Pretty much every seat in the house was taken on a weekday.
It was difficult for me to choose from the large array of Asian-fusion dishes small and large. I started off with a Limonada cocktail. The light, fruity treat was a refreshing addition to the intense, rich flavors of the Hot and Sour Soup. The initial heat was not overwhelming, but it did grow noticeably over time. The Dan Dan Noodles built upon that spice with a healthy dose of Szechuan sauce atop the noodles, ground pork, and pickled mustard greens.
Down The River
I thought, perhaps, I was in the wrong place for breakfast; this appeared to be a furniture store rather than a restaurant. But on the right side of the shop was Birdie's Eats with a small, well-equipped open kitchen where Chef Katie Dixon makes breakfast right in front of you. This set-up is smart because the customers can envision what a brand new kitchen could look like in their house while having a luxurious meal.
The menu was filled with the coolest dish names like the Grave Digger's Daughter smoothie bowl (Chef Katie is the daughter of a grave digger) and the TTT bowl named for the Southern Miss tagline To The Top, and everything features whole, high-quality ingredients. I selected the more savory meal of Morning Pesto Toast, a stacked 21 grain bread slice topped with plenty of avocado, pesto, brie, spinach, and fried egg
As we ate Chef Katie's wonderful breakfast, she regaled us with the story of how she came to be here after having such huge accolades like starring in MasterChef and Food Network Star. "Food is the avenue for me to help people," she told us. "I feel I was put here to encourage people on their path, and this is my little place to do it." The conversation got so wonderfully deep, as rich and layered as her food. This breakfast put me in a totally different mindset than I thought I would be in for the day, and the next adventure of experiencing quiet nature created a perfect combination.
We met with our guides from Pinebelt Blueways, and they loaded us up in our individual kayaks to take us out on the Leaf River. The weather could not have been nicer. The sun rays streamed through the trees effortlessly, and the water was so clear that you could often see the bottom. The great thing about this area is that the river is quite shallow so young people or inexperienced adults can enjoy their kayaking knowing they can probably stand up if needed. The river had enough current at this time of year to not need to paddle the entire time; I enjoyed long periods of coasting while occasionally using the paddle to navigate sandbars and fallen trees. Those sandbars made great pit stops to get some food and catch some rays.
I wanted to have some live music while dining, and Sully's was the perfect place to go; there's a musician or band every night of the week which I love. Jacob Arnold was the musical entertainment for the evening, and the menu itself provided literary entertainment. It told the story of the infamous John Sullivan and Jake Kilrain 76-round bareknuckle brawl that took place nearby in 1889. This was the last sanctioned ungloved bout, and the nearby roads are named after the men as is this restaurant. A hearty meal is appropriate here, and the Crab Claws and Jalapeno Cheese Curds were excellent starters to share. The Seared Tuna was more difficult to share, however. Continuing the hearty, southern path, I selected a big gravy-slathered Hamburger Steak that is only complemented by a cold, draft beer.
The Hub of Hub City
This bright, beautiful day required me to get back outdoors, and the bikes at Longleaf Piney Resort stood ready to take me out along the Longleaf Trace. After an outdoor breakfast featuring Equinox Coffee and an asiago cheese bagel from Southbound Bagel and Coffee, I was ready to roll.
Instead of the complimentary regular bike, I opted for an e-bike which I've never tried before. I was a little intimidated by the speed, but I was an expert at it in just a few minutes. It was exhilarating whizzing down the Trace overlooking pastures and pretty homes. I couldn't believe how much I loved riding the e-bike; my knees can get tired quickly on a regular bike. I felt like I could certainly handle going all the way to downtown and back on this trusty steed. The Longleaf Trace was paved atop a former railroad line, and it stretches for 44 miles. It's a popular activity for local bikers, joggers, and hot mom walkers, and it's wide enough to accommodate everyone.
I immediately noticed several musical points of interest in downtown Hattiesburg. The massive Jam Session mural and Heritage Music Park at the Hattiesburg Community Arts Center were wonderful to see. The Heritage Music Park was not just a monument to Hattiesburg and Mississippi musicality; the creations were instruments in their own right. You are encouraged to play and make tones with them.
The Hattiesburg Pocket Museum was next on the list, and I thought that it would be a traditional museum of some sort. It was not like that at all. The Pocket Museum is an alley full of installations that regular folks contribute to, making an ever-changing community work of art. The unconventional art space has art large and small. Really small. Some things are so tiny that you need to look in every nook, cranny, and crack to see all of it. The Pocket Theater is accessed only by looking through a peephole to see a video that changes on a regular basis to fit a new creative theme, akin to a nickelodeon. You can spend more time than you think here just trying to see all of the cool ways that citizens have used objects and paint to bring this area to life.
It was a pretty day to walk through the lively downtown where you can take your adult beverage to-go within a certain area (great for those used to walking with a drink in their hand). Bookstores, restaurants, bars, and shops brimmed with leisure seekers.
On the outskirts, Southern Prohibition Brewery called to say that the beer is cold and the eats are hot. The brewery is not like most in that the interior is sumptuous with a sexy lounge area, and a pink neon lit-taproom. This is a place that even non-beer lovers would find appealing. I enjoyed a flight of some of the stuff I haven't had before as well as a big, steaming hot plate of Poutine. I'm well aware that this was not the healthiest option, but I figured I got enough exercise on The Trace to make up for it. Additionally, the next adventure burned off a few calories because of how much walking I did.
The store sat just a short walk away, and the neon-painted 12-foot skeletons only hinted at what could be found inside. I have described visiting The Lucky Rabbit like walking right into my mind (I hope I didn't scare you). This massive place is hard to describe: part nostalgic wonderland, part movie set walk-throughs, part consignment store: all kooky and magical.
The Lucky Rabbit spans two big buildings with a patio area between them where events may be held. Not everything you see is for sale. The old TV installations and 1970s McDonald's playground equipment may just be for your enjoyment. However, you can peruse tons of stuff from clothing to records to glassware that is available for purchase. Be sure to look in every little space because you may come across some treasure. I happened upon a little theater space in a room that seemed more like an attic. I found things I haven't seen in 20 years, and it was so much fun that I would go back to Hattiesburg just to be here for a day.
During my visit, the largest walk-through exhibition was based upon the movie about a certain Bio-Exorcist who had a thing for a girl named Lydia. It was so well-made and detailed that I couldn't stop taking pictures to thrill my friends. I will be keeping up with The Lucky Rabbit to see what concoctions they come up with next.
Just before dinner, we hit up Live At 5 to enjoy some live music by Tommy "T-Bone" Pruitt. The free community event was packed with vendors, food trucks, local beer, and lots of locals. It was so nice to see so many people from the community having fun together today just relaxing among the trees watching the sun set beyond the band. Live At 5 hosts several concerts in fall and spring.
Keg and Barrel really had the whole feel of Hattiesburg in one spot. This brewpub is in a big, old house, and you just pick an empty table inside, on the wraparound porch, or outside and await your server. Sports and music memorabilia, festival posters, and folk art is everywhere you look, and big TVs located all over don't let you miss a minute of the action of whatever game you choose. It's a down-home place where everyone seems to know each other, kind of like eating dinner at your extended family's house while the game is on.
The Boogie Bombs appetizer is not to be missed according to the regulars. These big fried balls of pimento cheese release a puff of steam when bitten into. How can one resist a sandwich named Fatty McFat? This specialty sounded great with chicken tenders slathered in buffalo sauce topped with blue cheese crumbles on brioche. It was quite a journey to get through it, but a cold draft beer helped out. I did feel a little fat after, but that didn't stop me from enjoying some s'mores made over an open fire back at my tiny house cabin.
Close, Yet A World Away
As the sun rays broke through the pines, it was time to say goodbye to Longleaf Piney Resort and hello to breakfast at Loblolly. The fun bakery boasted so many types of freshly-baked pastries. It was necessary to get a little variety of baked goods to experience the sweet and savory, but I love the basic croissant that was so light and fluffy it practically melted in my mouth.
Less than two hours from New Orleans, Hattiesburg is a fun respite to enjoy nature, eat excellent food, and see some weird and wonderful sights. There's always something going on and new things to experience for a day trip or weekend getaway. The Saenger Theater has a full roster of concerts and theatrical performances, the Hattiesburg Geotour leads geocache enthusiasts to more than 40 sites, and the 1964 Freedom Summer Trail explains the story of the Civil Rights movement and voter registration drive here. Head to Hattiesburg and find your "why."
