Feliciana in Covington
Many countries in Europe are experiencing uncomfortable heat, yet travel prices are still high. If you're craving a cuisine-forward trip across the Atlantic Ocean, it may be best to wait out the summertime. However, you can fulfill your international hunger right here in the New Orleans Metro. First up, France is well represented at a brand new spot north of the lake.
I know Old Covington well having moved to the Northshore as a child and again as an adult. I used to look at the old, shuttered Star Theatre with aging posters still in the frames wishing it could be transformed into a nostalgic single-screen theater once again. The decaying movie theater was finally torn down in 2023, and a totally new, chic, modern building was put in its place. Its star tenant Feliciana opened in early 2026 to the delight of fine dining enthusiasts and culinary adventurists. A BRG concept, Feliciana is helmed by Chef de Cuisine Patrick Teagle who is proud to share his culinary acumen accumulated over six years at Domenica and Restaurant August.
I started off this exciting meal with an Earl de Provence, an intriguing blend of vodka, earl grey lavender, lemon, and sparkling wine. A dash of lavender atop highlighted the bold herbal flavor of the drink. The complex drink paired well with Scallops on the Half Shell. The petite scallops sat on lovely crimson-tinged sea shells. The very fresh scallops were topped with a tangy minced cucumber vinaigrette with a hint of espelette pepper.
The scallops may have been upstaged by the Octopus Carpaccio. I'm not usually a fan of octopus because of the intense chewiness, and I was skeptical that I would enjoy this dish to the degree of an octopus fan. I was pleasantly surprised by the paper-thin discs of octopus. This format made me appreciate the flavor of the meat flavored only with a light sauce vierge and crisp arugula without having to chew so much. I would happily eat this again. Keeping with raw items, the Cured Yellowfin Tuna was simple, fresh, and elegant. The thin slices of ruby red tuna needed only a whisper of harissa flavoring and a dash of puffed rice for the occasional pop to set it off.
The Gnocchi de Paris certainly fits in the French theme. Plump gnocchi swam in a decadent, spoon-worthy sauce alongside slices of mushrooms, English peas and buttery bits of crawfish meat. I think this would be amazing as a bread bowl dish even though it does perfectly well like this. The Blue Crab Beignets didn't appear as colorful and eye-catching as the previous dishes, but the flavor caused a ruckus at my table. The round beignets come out hot; the truffle aioli certainly helps with that. The interior is so creamy with high-quality cream cheese that envelops the blue crab. In fact, the crab is so well done, there's no stringiness to contend with, and absolutely no bits of shell. This is the dish that keeps people coming back, according to Chef Teagle.
The Puppy Drum was grilled but flaked so easily that it had a penchant for slipping from the fork due to its juiciness. The fish and plate had a coating of rich sauce with the flavors of the mushrooms and smoked tomato cooked in it that added to the moisture. A huge fried squash blossom sat aside the fish, and I snuck crunchy bites between forkfuls. Much like the previous dishes, Chef Teagle prefers to have diced and minced accouterments so that you can get all of the dish's flavors in every bite. The ratatouille below the filet was diced to allow for more than one veggie on the fork.
It was highly recommended to try out the ice cream which is mixed with bits of croissants, kind of like store-bought ice cream that has bits of cake in it. This is so much better. The ice cream has a great mouthfeel, thick like mochi due to the pastry bits in it. It has a cinnamony flavor that is even better with a hot shot of espresso poured over it.
Feliciana has a classic New Orleans restaurant style; the door is the corner of the building, and you walk in facing the gorgeous, warm bar. The dining area is on either side of this feature. While you are welcome to enjoy a craft cocktail or dinner at this bar, yet another libation station awaits you. Up the very tall, regal staircase (or elevator) brings you to a sexy, sophisticated bar with an open patio to take in some nighttime air, a first for this area. Paradise Covington is a respite of liquid and luxury with plush seating in an intimate space.
Feliciana is your French fix! Check out the menu and make reservations here.
