Louisiana made confections for the holidays
The holidays are here, and while you’re enjoying oyster stuffing, stuffed artichokes, and other traditional New Orleans favorites, remember that we have a rich history of desserts and candies too. These treats are uniquely Louisianan and great for holiday get-togethers with the whole family.
One of the oldest well-known candies that originated in New Orleans is pralines. Brought to New Orleans by French settlers, chefs in the 19th century changed the original recipe by adding cream to give it a thick, fudge-like consistency and substituting pecans for almonds, which were plentiful here. You can watch pralines being made the old-fashioned way at Aunt Sally’s Candy in the French Quarter. First opened by Pierre and Diane Bagur in the 1930s, pralines became popular and spread around the country. The process for making the treat is combining brown sugar, butter, cream, and nuts over heat until most of the water evaporates, then placing spoonfuls on a cold surface where it will harden. Aunt Sally’s has been expanding their menu over the years. Some new creations include a chewier praline, a lite variety and pralines infused with Tabasco.
Since New Orleans was founded up until the mid-20th century, food vendors would ride in mule-drawn carriages and sing about what products they had for sell. Only one still exists, and you can see the wagon, pulled by a mule, on St. Charles Avenue selling Roman Candy. The long sticks of taffy wrapped in wax paper called Roman Candy are traced back to Angeline Cortese, who made the taffy for her family during holidays. In 1915, her family began making and selling the taffy in the recognizable cart and is still owned and operated by the family. The flavors are still vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry at one dollar a stick, but you can now follow Roman Candy on Facebook and Twitter to see exactly where the cart is.
Doberge Cakes are a staple for birthdays and holidays. A Doberge Cake is thin layers of cake with custard between each layer and a think icing cover. Although the cake originated here, it was adapted from the Hungarian/ Austrian Dobos cake by Beulah Ledner. She began making the Doberge Cake in the early 20th century at her bakery, which was eventually bought by Joe Gambino in the late ‘40s.
Gambino’s Bakery still makes the cakes, according to baker Sam Scelfo, “We’re the only one who makes the true Doberge Cake from scratch; we cook our own custard, make our cake, and make our own icing. The custards we cook are lemon, chocolate, and caramel, and we’re starting to make a strawberry.” The cake has become known around the country through the decades, and is shipped from bakeries around the city to hungry buyers. “We’re shipping cakes every day. More people in New York, Los Angeles, Memphis, and Houston [buy cakes]. The reason is that’s where a lot of people in New Orleans have moved to.”
Elmer’s Chocolate is the traditional candy for holidays in New Orleans. The iconic Heavenly Hash and Gold Brick Eggs are a huge seller in the area. Elmer’s Chocolate was originally the Miller Candy Corporation started by pastry chef Christopher Henry Miller in the mid 1800s. Miller’s son-in-law Augustus Elmer joined the company, and, eventually, Elmer’s grandsons took over and debuted Heavenly Hash in 1923, Gold Brick Eggs 1936, and moved production to Ponchatoula. Elmer’s Chocolate is not owned by the family anymore, but still retains the same quality while striving to innovate.
Regional manager Sam Scheurmann states, “Every consumer package goods company must be good at something or they won’t continue to exist. Elmer Chocolate has been able to change with the times by creating great efficiencies in our production facility.” Elmer’s Chocolate is shipped worldwide, yet appeases to locals first. During the height of Saints frenzy, the Blackand-Gold Brick Chocolate was released bearing the team’s mascot. The chocolate makers also partnered with Baton Rouge Dairy Producers Kleinpeter Dairy to create the delicious Gold Brick Ice Cream. Scott says, “We are always working on new ideas/products. Many of them never make it to market for a number of reasons. [But] if one makes sense, we will do it. We are careful to take only the ‘best of the best’ to market.”
Gourmet chocolate restaurants have been popping up around town. They serve luscious chocolates, drinks, and other confections. Sucre, Blue Frog, and Lolli’s Chocolates are notable, but one confectionary stands out.
Bittersweet Confections makes chocolates, cupcakes, and truffles with a homemade flair. “I like to use ingredients that are grown locally, like our pecans from New Roads. When items are in season, they will always be fresher. It’s all about the taste; what’s pleasing to my palette and my customers,” explains owner and chocolate-maker Cheryl Scriptur, formerly a Farmer’s Market vendor. She declares her passion, “I love chocolate. I love the way it looks and smells, but mostly I love the way it tastes. Historically, chocolate has had a role in the lives of several very important figures. There aren’t too many other items that can claim that fame.”
Cheryl doesn’t stop working when the chocolate is done; she hosts a weekly class and leads tastings for her confections. In one event, Bittersweet got with local cheese makers St. James Cheese Company for a chocolate and cheese tasting. “There are so many different cheeses, wines and of course ways to make chocolate creations, we could do a class weekly and it would still draw a crowd.”
You can visit Bittersweet Confections at its new location at 725 Magazine in the Warehouse District.
As The Meters sing, “It’s good for the body. It’s good for the soul.” Although not to be indulged constantly, a little something sweet is a mood-booster. Cheryl says, “Chocolate is such a wonderful canvas. You can sculpt and mold it, use it for garnish, make a drink out of it, and even use a bit for sauces in savory items. My favorite way to enjoy a piece of my dark chocolate is in its purest form with a glass of red wine and some good company.”
