A Jazz Fest Journey is Half the Fun
The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, presented by Shell, is many things but predictable is not one of them. Planning how each day may unfold is an enjoyable lesson in delightful futility for many.
The fun is in the surprises that await and the unexpected opportunities—which often translates into performances, food, or people—that either present themselves or patrons inadvertently encounter. This first Friday of 2024's festival proved to be no exception.
Some were surprised to see Doreen Ketchens commanding the Economy Hall Tent stage, knowing her as a street busker every Sunday at the corner of Royal and St. Peter streets in the French Quarter. Others also finding delight in the unexpected.
Jonathan Bernstein from Dallas circled his wish-list of cubes at the beginning of the day and highlighting the ones he actually experienced after. At the end of the day, about half the circled cubes have color, but he found many uncircled cubes highlighted instead.
"Mr. Sipp was the biggest surprise today—I had no idea who he is, but I'm a fan now," said Bernstein. "I had no intention of seeing him [in the Blues Tent at 3 p.m.] but he blew me away. I started looking up where he tours—mostly juke joints in Mississippi—but then saw he's touring in Europe, too!"
"It's always aspirational," New Orleanian Neil Kohlman admited, knowing enough to circle his daily wish list of cubes on the morning of each day, aware the concerts he actually experiences may not be where he winds up.
Other first-time patrons get excited at reading his "old-school notes" penned in the sides to the point of taking pictures of Kohlman's sheet to reference themselves.
"There's no reason to walk around a stage or area when you can walk right through it," Kohlman strategized. As a Jazz Fest regular, he's learned from the joy in the unexpected. "The time going through a crowd is not really much a different than walking all the way around it. It's a better way to see more groups, foods, and the crafts." Plus, you never know when you'll be in the middle of a second line.
But the Twists and Turns of Jazz Fest are Not Limited to Music
"I was happy to see Crawfish Bread is back," said Ed Shedlock. The long-established Jazz Fest treat served by John Ed Laborde's Panaroma Foods was absent for the past festivals. But as the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival name indicated, heritage (and traditions) run deep in these parts, so many surrounding Shedlock's Festival Stage encampment overhearing this news immediately demanded to know if Panaroma was still in their location—confirming they were in Food Station 1 [to the right of the Jazz & Heritage stage in the infield when entering through the Sauvage pedestrian entrance].
The Wild Turkey tent is a well established oasis from the beer options of Jazz Fest, offering limited cocktail options. However, even bourbon aficionados were pleasantly surprised to learn the distiller was hosting bourbon tastings for eager participants with 10 minute tastings between 11 a.m and 12:30 p.m. each day. Starting the day out with a flight of their whiskeys for $15 was a bargain recognized by anyone buying concessions throughout the day.
Some crafts and vendors change between the first and second weekends, much less between each year, so the craftsmanship and artistry are often fun, whimsical, and new to regulars as much as first-timers.
A nice surprise were notices notifying patrons that ticket proceeds support free local music education programs, including the Don "Moose" Jamison Heritage School of Music, providing free after-school music instruction to over 300 students each week at the George and Joyce Wein Jazz & Heritage Center.
But even when patrons expect the unexpected, surprises present
themselves. During the festival, its easy to forget that the Fair Grounds Race Course and Slots is first and foremost a racing venue for thoroughbred horse racing, so patrons may take little notice when passing around three white markers while walking through the infield. However, these stone markers are the final resting places of Notorious, Pan Zareta, and Black Gold. Notorious was a New Orleans fan favorite, Pan Zareta's impressive winning career had the mare considered to be the "Queen of the Turk," and Black Gold captured the blanket of roses by winning the 50th Kentucky Derby in 1924.
Never Leave Early
The biggest surprise of the day for many was experienced among the throngs of people cheering on New Orleans' own Jonathan Michael Batiste at the Shell Gentilly Stage. As the show was close to ending, the Grammy and Oscar Award-winning artist led his band off stage, with many believing he was ending the show.
But always a local, Batiste unexpectedly circled around—and then through—his mass of fans. People far back from the stage were screaming in disbelief as the St. Aug alum snaked crowd, making time to pose for selfies, fistbumping fans as his following dancers and band members played on. Even after the show was over, wide-eyed fans were still trying to process the unique Jazz Fest experience, leaving them with memories—and a story—that could not be orchestrated.
And of course, the impromptu after-fest parties on the street outside the gates delighted departing festival-goers and kept the party going in the surrounding neighborhoods, including bands and food vendors lining Sauvage, North Lopez, and Mystery streets.
The surprises and unplanned detours are what keep Jazz Fest eternally fresh and fun for fans, even life-long locals like Kohlman, who's approach is simple: "I like seeing where the day takes me."
