February Food News
By Lorin Gaudin
February is a busy, busy month: Super Bowl, Mayoral race, Mardi Gras, Olympics, Valentine's Day, and Asian New Year, to name some—each of these events laden with coordinating foods, feasts, or dining opportunities. And of course there's the everyday-ness of our dining habits; we never miss a chance to dig in to something delicious, try someplace new, and talk about the next good thing, all at the same time. To quote Margo Channing (Bette Davis) from the movie "All About Eve," "Fasten your seat belts, it's going to be a bumpy night." In our case, it's going to be a bumpy month!
We covered the beginning of king cake season in last month's issue, but now were in full-swing and it's worth mentioning some specialty king cakes. Cake Cafe & Bakery in the Marigny cooks up a rich, eggy brioche ring that can be ordered traditionally plain, or dolled up with goat cheese and apple or Creole Cream Cheese. Maurice French Pastries makes classic French king cakes with puff pastry dough and frangipani (almond paste) filling, a regular cinnamon-laced brioche dough, or the odd, but interesting "Obama King Cake" filled with chocolate and cream cheese, chocolate drizzle icing, red, white and blue stars, a mini flag, and of course, black and white king cake babies.
In the realm of "what's new," Le Foret, a rather glitzy place in the CBD, opened in December and is getting good notices. We're gonna let them get their groove on just a bit longer before we post, so keep your eyes peeled for future "dish." We'll say this: the chef has serious chops and appears to have composed an intriguing contemporary, Continental menu.
Chef Dominique Macquet is said to be opening a new restaurant Uptown on Magazine Street. His delicious dishes from Mauritius (from his former spot in the Maison Dupuy) were always interesting. We look forward to a fresh take on Dominique's culinary artistry.
Mike Fennelly and Vicky Bailey, the original chef-owners of Mike's on the Avenue (the city's first modern Asian-fusion restaurant), are coming full circle with their return to the space in the bottom of the Lafayette Hotel. This new incarnation, Mike's East West opened in late January and the menu is decidedly Asian. Chef Mike is bringing back some of his classics like crawfish spring rolls with chile-lime sauce, and New Orleans BBQ oysters with crispy pancetta, as well as launching new items. There will be a sushi/raw bar with a twist—Mike makes the sushi in his unique style; small plates and large plates, all with many flavors from the East and a bit of Latin spice, tumbled with Louisiana's lovely seafood.
Savvy Gourmet is gone, gone, but street buzz is that a restaurant is slated for the space. When we know more, so will you. And for those who are wondering, Tom Wolfe has said he is "definitely re-opening Wolfe's on Rampart Street." Stay tuned.
Chefs Adolfo Garcia and Josh Smith of A Mano, have taken the lunch-time plunge, opening three days per week with a small but mighty lunch menu. Antipasti are $6, soups and salads $7, panini are $8, mains are $10, and there is a fabulous lunch special (see our "Random Acts of Dining under $15," for more info). Soup geeks will love the chefs' clean approach. On one visit, we were transfixed by the earthy-woody porcini mushroom, black kale (cavalo nero) and farro soup, all brothy and deep with fabulous texture. The panini are also nice—special taste and texture props going to "3P" with prosciutto, pecorino, and pepperocini. A Mano is also offering specialty cocktails—think smart and simple as in the satsuma prosecco or sorrentini (Barcelona gin with fresh Meyer lemon-satsuma juice and basil-infused syrup).
Several new ethnic restaurants have opened. First, there is top-notch Honduran food at Telemar on Earhart, where the portions are huge and the prices more-than reasonable. Plan to share. We went ballistic for the mixed grill fajitas loaded down with beef, chicken, and fat shrimp; house made tortilla; lagniappe appetizer of dark bean and cotija cheese "nachos." The typical curtido garnish of shredded vegetables (like a vinegar-based slaw), with its bright colors and crunch, had us at "hola."
Follow that find with two extremely new restaurants that are already getting attention on the best local food board, Mr. Lake's Non-Pompous Food Forum: Banana Blossom Thai Cafe (2112 Belle Chase Hwy; Gretna; www.eatbananablossom.com; 504-392-7530); and Tarka Indian & Pakistani Cuisine (3207 Williams Blvd, Kenner; 504-471-6141).
Finally, they're all the rage in New York and Los Angeles, and it looks like New Orleans might be joining the fray with the city's first gourmet food truck. More details forthcoming, but according the chef-owner, we should expect to see said truck in operation during Mardi Gras.
Current articles
Latest Events
- Circle Bar: Imaginary Air Show with Narcissy
September 08, 2010 (16:00)
(Default) (General) - Crescent City Brewhouse: New Orleans Street Beat
September 08, 2010 (18:00)
(Default) (General) - Maison: Jerry Jumonville & the Jump City Band, No Name Group
September 08, 2010 (18:00 - 19:00)
(Default) (General) - BMC: Domenic, Rue Fiya
September 08, 2010 (19:00)
(Default) (General) - Boomtown: Sam Demaris (Comedy)
September 08, 2010 (19:00)
(Default) (General)


