The weather's chilly and I have a cold.  I've had chicken soup with matzo balls, I've had chicken soup without matzo balls; there's been big bowls of tomatosoup and thick cups of congee (rice porridge) but nothing has soothed or satisfied.  It feels like time for a big bowl of meaty Pho - a broth deep with aromatics of star anise and cinnamon, dusky-colored, minimally fatty and utterly gorgeous.  I need the chew of various beefy parts like tendon and tripe, the crunch of fresh cabbage or mung bean sprouts, the brashness of freshly squeezed lime, the bite of onion, the heat of jalapeno.  Who makes "the best" pho?  Well, that's certainly a matter of personal taste, but when I want to "go Pho it," I hit Pho Danh 4 just inside the Hong Kong Market.  Slurping a steaming bowl of Pho, gathering nests of noodles on my spoon, picking up bits of meat, and adding a dash of hot pepper sauce, gives a whole new meaning to the word "chill." It's a soul thing and suddenly my cold is a thing of the past.